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Just curious, why a new idler wheel? What you describe sounds like the idler lean is out. Has the bow been tuned for a bullet hole in paper at two distances? Have you done a Walk Back Tune? Trying to broadhead tune and get them to hit with FPs before correcting the idler lean, before getting near-bullet holes in paper, and before doing a Walk Back Tune is not likely to work out, IMHO
Another issue if a bullet hole in paper can't be achieved and a rest with down-cable actuation is used, is rest timing. First, verify no fletch contact, then make minor adjustments to rest reaction time to find a sweet spot that tunes to a bullet hole. Start with the actuation cord tied in about mid-grip ... lower than mid-grip speeds up when the rest drops, above mid-grip slows it down. Even .300 spine shafts can be on the weak side for 70#/30" Helim if they are longer than about 29" AMO and have more than about 125-gr wt up front (point+insert/adapter). A .400 spine shaft is way too weak, will make tuning more difficult, and unlikely that FPs and BHs can be brought to the same POI. Your dealer should know this ... and if he didn't either he or you could have checked the arrow selection charts
Gold Tip Chart: Guide for Helim IBO rating recommends at least one box to the right of DW and Arrow Length
If you want .400 spine shafts with FPs to shoot anywhere close to broadheads, once the bow has been tuned for a bullet hole, and Walk Back Tuned with FP, every shaft in the dozen should be shot through paper and the nock rotated to get a bullet hole. Any shafts that can't be made to have a bullet hole should be set aside for FP practice only. Next, when mounting the broadheads, every broadhead should have no visible wobble when spun and oriented to the nock exactly alike. Then you have half a chance that you can get FPs and BHs hitting near the same POI ... ultimately, with weak spined arrows, you'll either have to change to mechanical heads or move the sight for the fixed-blade BHs and go hunting.
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