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[quote=591293]... People start twisting everything up until they see a bullet hole and they take the shootability right out of the bow. Center shot should be at 3/4″ ish. ... try standing at 30 yards and shoot a fixed blade head and a field point at the same aiming point. You’ll be amazed at how far off you are. ... Most would benefit from using the paper for setting nock height only, moving onto walkback tuning and from there onto group tuning.[/quote]
... Too much time is spent on paper tear or bareshaft tuning, which are just basic tuning methods, really intended to get you on the target. Real accuracy comes from intermediate and advanced Tuning methods. But any attempt at tuning before getting the bow properly setup usually ends in frustration. 1. Cam Lean: because of the torque of the roller guard on the cable and string, the cam will have a slight lean at brace, this is normal. If the cam lean is so severe as to rub or nearly rub the limb, then take the bow to the dealer for warranty repair. 2. Idler Lean: Use Vince's Idler Lean Adjustment method to verify/correct the yokes so that the idler is straight up/down at full draw and the string tracks straight off of it ... not like |\ or /| ... BEFORE beginning any tuning method. "Yoke Tuning" to correct an existing problem is like putting a Band-Aid on the problem, which is bunk IMHO.
3. BEFORE starting any tuning method, adjust the launcher so that the arrow is supported at the berger hole and set the nock height/D-Loop slightly above perpendicular as measured with a bow square, 1/8" to 3/16" is usually enough for ICS shafts, sometimes a bit higher for fatshafts. By being slightly high any rest contact issues can be eliminated ... the nock height is the first thing to correct once the tuning process starts. 4. Eliminate any nock pinch BEFORE attempts at tuning. As the bow is drawn, the string angle becomes greater and the nock points close up on the nock, torqueing the shaft on the launcher, sometimes enough to lift the shaft up and off the launcher. Nock pinch is a major reason so many can't shoot a Spring Steel/Lizard-Tongue launcher. If you have less than about a 1/16" gap under the nock when at brace, you almost certainly have nock pinch at full draw. 5. Properly spined shafts will make the tuning process much easier. Weak spined shafts magnify any deficiencies in bow setup or shooter form, and in general are very unforgiving, especially with broadheads. It is possible to get weak spined shafts to shoot accurately, but form must be exceptionally consistent. For hunting, weak spined shafts do not penetrate as well as properly spined or slightly stiff shafts ... the difference of trying to push a noodle or a straw through Jello. 6. Check for fletch contact using spray foot powder. While I don't usually do this BEFORE beginning any tuning, I do it
if there is any persistent tear that doesn't respond to centershot or nock height adjustments.
If the bow is properly setup it should shoot with consistency and respond to changes in centershot and nock height
. If it does not, then shooter form is interfering with the bow's performance. The two most common interferences are bow hand torque and string torque caused by too much string/fletch contact on the face. Bow Hand Positioning:
Easton's Arrow Tuning and Maintenance Guide is the 'Bible', although the Broadhead Tuning advice pertains to finger shooters and not that helpful for release aid shooters. To make the most out of any tuning method takes some understanding of what is happening when changes are made. When you make a change to see what will happen, that is Tinkering; when you make a change and know what will happen, that's an Adjustment.
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