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It is advisable to use a tied-in nock point above the nock and inside the D-Loop in the event the D-loop must be replaced without loosing the nock height setting. Each brass nock point will cost about 3 fps in arrow speed. Two tied-in nock points usually amount to less than 1 or 2 fps. Brass nock points also may gouge the nocks and if installed with too much pressure can lead to early string failure under the serving. There are a number of ways to use tied-in nock points inside the D-Loop, each method having some differences: - One nock point above the nock. This provides a flat spot for a positive nock height where a D-Loop knot does not, which becomes important if the D-Loop tends to twist. - One nock point above and one nock point below the nock inside the D-Loop. This provides a positive nock height and prevents nock pinch by both leaving a 1/16" (2mm) gap under the nock and by reducing the sharpness of the string angle at the nock. This method also places the line of pull directly behind the arrow, which makes broadhead tuning easier. - One nock point under the nock or the lower of two nock points larger than the upper nock point inside of the D-Loop. This will exert some downward force on the launcher which prevents the arrow from lifting off the launcher, and especially good for a blade launcher on windy days. This method also slightly reduces the arrow's dynamic spine, which could be good or bad depending on the setup, point weight, etc. John Dudley has an excellent article discussing the various methods and the Pros/Cons:
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