Looking for recommendations on youth arrows. My son is only 8, 19 inch draw length, approximately 20 lb. draw weight. He wants to be able to shoot targets and small game like rabbits. Also, what length arrow should he be using? Im a newbie myself so would appreciate any advice. Thanks!
Joined: 1/18/2006I recently got some Beman ICS Hunter Junior arrows, and am very happy with them. Got them at Amazon, along with Allen company 75 grain tips. Good quality, durable and accurate. Just for kicks I shot my daughter’s bow, and I can group these arrows 1″ at 20 yards. There were twelve arrows in the pack, and I gave six to my twelve year old, and six to my nine years old. I have not cut them yet, as they are too long, but they shoot fine for both of them as is. With kids, no reason not to let the arrow be a little long if it flies well. Room to grow.
Good luck!At 20#/19″ only about 6 ft-lbs KE is generated and isn’t really suitable even for rabbits. You’ll need an arrow with a very weak spine, about 3.0″, almost a limp noodle and not very durable for proper spine, so going stiffer in spine isn’t a bad idea as long as the overall weight doesn’t slow the bow too much.
I’d recommend cutting the shaft no shorter than about 1″ beyond the riser, and recommend 23″, that provides a bit of safety and room to grow. If the boy’s DL increases beyond 22″, and he likes archery, he’ll be needing new arrows anyway…maybe even a new bow.
The Jazz XX75 1214, 2.5″ spine, with 45-gr bullet point and G-nock is about the closest fit @ about 115 fps. Also the Jazz 1413 with 35-gr bullet point and 7/32″ glue-on nock works at about the same speed. I like the Jazz 1214 because it has a better FOC and a direct fit instead of a glue on nock. You’d have to go to at least a 1716 to get an RPS insert and screw in points, which would be very heavy at 9 gpi, and only about 90 fps (a slow softball pitch speed), and not much distance.
I like aluminum shafts for youth arrows because they are durable and eliminate the worry about cracks, splits, slivers, etc. Aluminum in the small sizes doesn’t weigh much more than expensive carbon target shafts and lighter than most youth carbon shafts (1214&1413 are 5.9 gpi, Easton Carbon One 1150 are 5 gpi, Beman ICS Hunter Jr are 7.9 gpi). Aluminum will get bent, but they can be acceptably hand straightened. The G-nock is a direct fit and easily changed out. And, they are about the same cost as Youth Carbon shafts, around $56/dz for finished arrows.
At only 6 ft-lbs KE a small game blunt for rabbits is out of the question, unless you want to just bounce it off of them, and with a bullet target point there would be just too much squealing, kicking, and wounding … might not be a good introduction to bowhunting.
… hopes this helps.
PS – with the ultra-slow youth bows, I don’t burden them with the extra weight of No-Glove fingers. A simple finger tab or glove doesn’t unnecessarily slow the bow. It is hard to find a release aide that fits a youth, and it takes extra coordination that some have not yet acquired, but can be good training for later on. TruFire makes some ‘kid-sized’ releases.Thanks Brian. I already purchased Beman ICS Hunter JR 26 inch length with 75 grain blunt tips before reading your advice. This is what the guy at the shop recommended and he did NOT cut the arrows down. It turns out my son will probably have a 20 inch draw. Would you recommend they be cut to 24″ or do you think 26″ will be okay? He will be shooting a Bear Apprentice 2. According to the manual, with a 20″ draw, the bow will max out 45.5-49.5 lbs and with the limb bolts fully backed out 6 turns it should be about 26-30 lbs. I plan on starting him at the minimum draw weight until he is comfortable and then slowly move up from there. I guess we will hold off on wounding any rabbits until his draw weight increases a little! I will let him stick to his Savage .22 for killing rabbits for now. Also, I did see a the kids size TruFire realeses but havent decided which one to get yet. I should probably take him in and see which one fits best.
Thanks again for the advice!No matter what the length, they will be very stiff for a 28#/20″ setup. As long as he shoots a release, spine won’t matter much, but if he’ll be shooting fingers, the arrows will fly way wide left for a RH shooter. Might as well cut them down to 22″ so he can pick up some speed. I’d also change the tip to a 65-gr Saunders Combo point, a little better speed and fewer ‘bounce outs’.
The bow will generate about 9 ft-lbs KE, OK for small squirrels and birds, doubtful on cottontails, definitely not enough for Jack rabbits or hares.Thanks Brian…you are a wealth of knowledge. I think I will get him some Easton Jazz arrows. Couple more questions if you dont mind. Would you recommend 1214′s or 1413′s? I found the arrows on a couple of online archery shops and I want to make sure I get them set up correctly. I will have them cut to 22″ as you suggested. Do I want the the fletch Right Offset? What fletching style/material and size would you recommend?
Thanks again and have a great Turkey Day!For low-KE youth setups, I recommend the 1214′s for the better FOC, and that they take a G-nock or F-nock direct fit, plus the thicker wall makes them a bit more durable.
The Jazz 1214 and 1413 are both 5.9 gpi, so shoot at about the same speed, the main difference being in the glue-in bullet point weight and spine ratings. The 1214 uses a 45-gr bullet, with a better spine rating and FOC (7.5% w/ Feathers or Blazer X2 vane, typical 3D FOC), while the 1413 uses a 35-gr bullet which gives it a very low-FOC (5.5% w/ feathers or Blazer X2). You can always epoxy/hotmelt birdshot into the bullet point to improve weight/FOC in either the 1214 or 1413.
A 2º Right offset, 3-fletch is fine, and standard. Feathers are a hassle since they aren’t durable and pose a small risk, plus are more expensive both initially, then in refletching. If the feather comes loose, it is possible for a kid to get it shot into a finger … I’ve done it myself with my recurve. On a small diameter shaft, I’d recommend the Blazer X2 vane, which is lighter, lower profile than the regular Blazer and not much heavier than feathers.
For low-KE youth setups, I recommend the 1214′s for the better FOC, and that they take a G-nock or F-nock direct fit, plus the thicker wall makes them a bit more durable.On a small diameter shaft, I’d recommend the Blazer X2 vane, which is lighter, lower profile than the regular Blazer and not much heavier than feathers.
Brian, I found this online shop that offers the 1214′s, however they do not offer the Blazer X2 vanes. What would be your second choice? Thanks!
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