You should list as limb weights, not draw weights.

Home Forums Archery Tech Forum You should list as limb weights, not draw weights.

This topic contains 44 replies, has 11 contributors, and was last updated by spurhunter spurhunter 1 year, 7 months ago.

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  • January 3, 2013 at 10:11 pm #497461 Back to Top REPORT
    jeffgothro
    JeffGothro

    Age: 44
    Joined: 11/16/2012
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    When I bought my bow (Helim) its listed as 40-70 & 65 lbs. Now, I was under the impression my bow could be adjusted to all of these weights, so, that’s what I did, I set my bow at 50lbs which was perfect, yet my dealer informed me all the limbs are different and are made for different weights, so, I have a 70lb bow that’s to hard for me to shoot now as of my dealer cranked the weight back up. I can only shoot it half a dozen times or so before my muscles are to tired and strained to pull back – half a dozen times, that’s no fun.

    Also, what can I do about this, do I need to buy different limbs now, I’m out 1,000$ already on this bow – this hobby is getting really expensive, I’m like 1,800-2,000$ into it with the two bows I’ve bought and all the stuff I’ve bought for them, and despite all this, I cant even shoot them because I’m still buying stuff I need to shoot with (layed away a Mathews arrow stop today in fact and bought half a dozen arrows).

    January 4, 2013 at 12:15 am #545940 Back to Top REPORT
    99fatboy
    99fatboy

    Age: 52
    Joined: 2/15/2010
    Location: n.y.
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    first off,it sounds like the dealer you chose wasn’t very helpful in your draw weight decision,or the differences of the limbs available. your best option now is to get lower poundage limbs or have dealer swap them for you,which I doubt they will do,but never hurts to ask. my next piece of advice is to research and ask questions before making a decision. there are always people willing to help with things your unsure of.
    black z7 magnum,tommy hogg,qad,b-stingers, vaportrail: blue smoke triumph,sword,hamskae,b-stingers:desert tactical chill R, tommy hogg,limbdriver pro v,ktech
    January 4, 2013 at 12:46 am #545941 Back to Top REPORT

    Jay Miller

    Joined: 2/6/2010
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    Most bows (Hoyt, Mathews, Bear, Apline, Strothers etc) have draw weights in 10# increments with the higher # is what is marked on them indicating their maxed out limit which sometimes is a few # over that even. There are a few exceptions to that case but in general it holds true.

    An example, a 70# Mathews bow will max out around 72# and go down to 58-60#. A 60# will max out around 62# and will go down to 48-50#. If you are having problems pulling back 70#’s then I would back the limb bolts out 5 full turns from the maxed out position (limb pockets touching riser is fully maxed out) and you should be close to 60#. Get a cheap bow scale (http://www.lancasterarchery.com/feather … scale.html) to validate the # you are pulling as well will help you and as you shoot more you can increase the # a half turn until you want to stop. Honestly, I shoot at 63-66# myself and it is more than enough to kill a deer with.

    I would read the owners manual to get better acquainted with the bow, changing draw weight and how to verify specs if you have not done so. They can also be found on mathewsinc.com support section under manuals.

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    January 4, 2013 at 1:01 am #545942 Back to Top REPORT
    jeffgothro
    JeffGothro

    Age: 44
    Joined: 11/16/2012
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    my next piece of advice is to research and ask questions before making a decision.

    I did, I researched this hobby for 2-3 months before buying my Mathews bow, none of the sites I researched mention draw weights in relation particular types of limbs, in fact, this is the main article I often referenced from.

    http://www.huntersfriend.com/bowselection.htm

    January 4, 2013 at 1:14 am #545943 Back to Top REPORT
    jeffgothro
    JeffGothro

    Age: 44
    Joined: 11/16/2012
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    Most bows (Hoyt, Mathews, Bear, Apline, Strothers etc) have draw weights in 10# increments with the higher # is what is marked on them indicating their maxed out limit which sometimes is a few # over that even. There are a few exceptions to that case but in general it holds true.

    An example, a 70# Mathews bow will max out around 72# and go down to 58-60#. A 60# will max out around 62# and will go down to 48-50#. If you are having problems pulling back 70#’s then I would back the limb bolts out 5 full turns from the maxed out position (limb pockets touching riser is fully maxed out) and you should be close to 60#. Get a cheap bow scale to validate the # you are pulling as well will help you and as you shoot more you can increase the # a half turn until you want to stop. Honestly, I shoot at 63-66# myself and it is more than enough to kill a deer with.

    I would read the owners manual to get better acquainted with the bow, changing draw weight and how to verify specs if you have not done so. They can also be found on mathewsinc.com support section under manuals.[/quote:2pvujkoi]

    *sigh* (more crap to fix/buy) – I’m just going to give up and sell my stuff if this gets to much more expensive and a hassle – disabled on a fixed income, I cant afford to buying hundreds of dollars of stuff every month. I did read the owners manual, that’s how I learned to adjust the draw weight myself – again, the manual didn’t mention draw weights in relation to particular limbs, nor did Mathews or any other websites I visited. To be honest (and I know I’m just pissing in the wind), I think Mathews should fix the problem since they as well as my dealer didn’t give me enough information to make an informed decision about what I need (how the heck was I supposed to know a draw weight is specific to a single bow when its listed with several draw weights – leads me to believe a single bow is capable of shooting at all the weights listed, not just the weight printed on the limb.

    January 4, 2013 at 2:16 am #545944 Back to Top REPORT
    99fatboy
    99fatboy

    Age: 52
    Joined: 2/15/2010
    Location: n.y.
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    not to get testy but,when there are several DIFFERENT draw weights listed,such as 40,50,60,70,this does NOT mean the same as 40-70lb. it’s very hard to believe that in all of the research you did,this never came to light for you. archery is a very fun but complex sport which does take knowledge to fully enjoy, there are many options in many areas of the setup,many of which a good proshop should help the beginner with. it’s unfortunate that this was overlooked,but if you struggled with the draw weight from the get go,this certainly should have been talked about before purchase. there is no fault on Mathews part,but possibly on how you read what was in print.
    black z7 magnum,tommy hogg,qad,b-stingers, vaportrail: blue smoke triumph,sword,hamskae,b-stingers:desert tactical chill R, tommy hogg,limbdriver pro v,ktech
    January 4, 2013 at 2:25 am #545945 Back to Top REPORT

    Jay Miller

    Joined: 2/6/2010
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    not to get testy but,when there are several DIFFERENT draw weights listed,such as 40,50,60,70,this does NOT mean the same as 40-70lb. it’s very hard to believe that in all of the research you did,this never came to light for you. archery is a very fun but complex sport which does take knowledge to fully enjoy, there are many options in many areas of the setup,many of which a good proshop should help the beginner with. it’s unfortunate that this was overlooked,but if you struggled with the draw weight from the get go,this certainly should have been talked about before purchase. there is no fault on Mathews part,but possibly on how you read what was in print.

    Unfortunately I have to agree with 99 on this one. Below is a copy/paste straight for the Heli’m's spec page when you click on the draw weight options that says 40-70# and 65# for the “Mathews 101″.

    http://mathewsinc.com/product/helim/#specs
    http://mathewsinc.com/bows/mathews-101/specs-101/#dw

    This is simply the minimum and maximum amount of weight required to bring the bow to full draw. Typically, this weight range is 10 pounds. For instance, a bow with a 60 pound peak draw weight will have a minimum of 50 pounds. Likewise, a 70 pound draw will carry a minimum draw-weight of 60 lbs. Overall draw weight can be increased or reduced (within this 10 pound range) by simply tightening or loosening the limb-bolts on each limb…read more

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    January 4, 2013 at 2:35 am #545946 Back to Top REPORT
    jeffgothro
    JeffGothro

    Age: 44
    Joined: 11/16/2012
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    not to get testy but,when there are several DIFFERENT draw weights listed,such as 40,50,60,70,this does NOT mean the same as 40-70lb. it’s very hard to believe that in all of the research you did,this never came to light for you. archery is a very fun but complex sport which does take knowledge to fully enjoy, there are many options in many areas of the setup,many of which a good proshop should help the beginner with. it’s unfortunate that this was overlooked,but if you struggled with the draw weight from the get go,this certainly should have been talked about before purchase. there is no fault on Mathews part,but possibly on how you read what was in print.

    Why would it come to light – as I said, its NOT listed anywhere to me, this means the same, [40,50,60,70,this does NOT mean the same as 40-70lb?]. So, again, why would it come to light, in only difference I see in your weights you posted is a commas and dashes, to me it looks like someone is lazy at typing (insert web-page-builder guys name here) and instead of posting 40,50,60,70, they took a shortcut and just posted 40-70?

    To my knowledge, my dealer didnt have any Helims in stock or any Mathews bows (he had Missions) when I bought mine – I told him I wanted the best bow I can get, in all the reviews I read Mathews brand and the Helim were often at the top of the list. With that in mind, I orderd a 70lb bow honestly believing I would be able to adjust it to the weight I was comfortable with.

    In fact, I mentioned to my dealer when I was still deciding which bow to buy if 70lbs is to heavy for me my dealer said it would be no problem to adjust it down to 40-50lbs or whatever. I disagree while its not intirely Mathews fault, they are not giving enough information to a newbe to make an informed decision – how is that my fault?

    January 4, 2013 at 2:48 am #545947 Back to Top REPORT
    jeffgothro
    JeffGothro

    Age: 44
    Joined: 11/16/2012
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    not to get testy but,when there are several DIFFERENT draw weights listed,such as 40,50,60,70,this does NOT mean the same as 40-70lb. it’s very hard to believe that in all of the research you did,this never came to light for you. archery is a very fun but complex sport which does take knowledge to fully enjoy, there are many options in many areas of the setup,many of which a good proshop should help the beginner with. it’s unfortunate that this was overlooked,but if you struggled with the draw weight from the get go,this certainly should have been talked about before purchase. there is no fault on Mathews part,but possibly on how you read what was in print.

    Unfortunately I have to agree with 99 on this one. Below is a copy/paste straight for the he will’m's spec page when you click on the draw weight options that says 40-70# and 65# for the “Mathews 101″.

    http://mathewsinc.com/product/helim/#specs
    http://mathewsinc.com/bows/mathews-101/specs-101/#dw

    This is simply the minimum and maximum amount of weight required to bring the bow to full draw. Typically, this weight range is 10 pounds. For instance, a bow with a 60 pound peak draw weight will have a minimum of 50 pounds. Likewise, a 70 pound draw will carry a minimum draw-weight of 60 lbs. Overall draw weight can be increased or reduced (within this 10 pound range) by simply tightening or loosening the limb-bolts on each limb…read more[/quote:1myxa3wm]

    Well, they (Mathews) needs to be more specific about that on there product pages. Not all of us “get it” or have enough information to know better and make an informed decision..

    January 4, 2013 at 2:50 am #545948 Back to Top REPORT
    backhalfed
    backhalfed

    Joined: 10/5/2007
    Location: Ohio
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    Your problem should be with your dealer first off,He is the one that didn’t answer the questions and set you up with the right stuff!

    Your bow being a 70Lb bow drop the draw weight,it will back down to 60lbs and seehow it shoots for you there.

    In your one post you say “Bows” as in two ,if your just getting into this and funds are a little tight why 2 bows?

    January 4, 2013 at 2:50 am #545949 Back to Top REPORT
    jeffgothro
    JeffGothro

    Age: 44
    Joined: 11/16/2012
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    ooops
    January 4, 2013 at 2:50 am #545950 Back to Top REPORT
    bigrobc
    bigrobc

    Age: 34
    Joined: 1/26/2011
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    If your dealer told you a 70# bow could be backed off to 40# or 50#’s…he is clueless. Unfortunately, your stuck with it. I would speak with him nicely, and tell him about the missunderstanding and see what he can do. But at worst your lookin at 200$ for a set of new limbs
    January 4, 2013 at 2:55 am #545951 Back to Top REPORT
    jeffgothro
    JeffGothro

    Age: 44
    Joined: 11/16/2012
    View My Bows

    Your problem should be with your dealer first off,He is the one that didn’t answer the questions and set you up with the right stuff!

    Your bow being a 70Lb bow drop the draw weight,it will back down to 60lbs and seehow it shoots for you there.

    In your one post you say “Bows” as in two ,if your just getting into this and funds are a little tight why 2 bows?[/quote:17cqgpcg]

    One bow buy was a cheap ebay close-out…before I got the Mathews. Its at 60lbs now and it sucks, I can only draw it back 5-6 times and my arm is to tired to draw it back anymore. I had it set at 50lbs and it was perfect. Dealer wont do anything, I think I’m done with him…I’m so ****** off and hurt right now I cant even see strait.

    January 4, 2013 at 2:57 am #545952 Back to Top REPORT

    Jay Miller

    Joined: 2/6/2010
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    not to get testy but,when there are several DIFFERENT draw weights listed,such as 40,50,60,70,this does NOT mean the same as 40-70lb. it’s very hard to believe that in all of the research you did,this never came to light for you. archery is a very fun but complex sport which does take knowledge to fully enjoy, there are many options in many areas of the setup,many of which a good proshop should help the beginner with. it’s unfortunate that this was overlooked,but if you struggled with the draw weight from the get go,this certainly should have been talked about before purchase. there is no fault on Mathews part,but possibly on how you read what was in print.

    Unfortunately I have to agree with 99 on this one. Below is a copy/paste straight for the he will’m's spec page when you click on the draw weight options that says 40-70# and 65# for the “Mathews 101″.

    http://mathewsinc.com/product/helim/#specs
    http://mathewsinc.com/bows/mathews-101/specs-101/#dw

    This is simply the minimum and maximum amount of weight required to bring the bow to full draw. Typically, this weight range is 10 pounds. For instance, a bow with a 60 pound peak draw weight will have a minimum of 50 pounds. Likewise, a 70 pound draw will carry a minimum draw-weight of 60 lbs. Overall draw weight can be increased or reduced (within this 10 pound range) by simply tightening or loosening the limb-bolts on each limb…read more[/quote:3kkyep96]

    Well, they (Mathews) needs to be more specific about that on there product pages. Not all of us “get it” or have enough information to know better and make an informed decision..[/quote:3kkyep96]

    That is straight from the product spec page so they do explain it clearly as I also initially did as well. I am sorry that you did not understand it but it is stated on their website for all of their bows when you go to the specs and highlight each spec. If you clicked the links I pasted above you would see they not only have a dedicated page for it, also in the owners manual but they also have it as a pop-out to the right of each of the specs when you high light it.

    Again I am sorry but I cannot see you passing blame on this one since it is in multiple parts of their website and in the owners manuals. I realize you are new to archery which makes this very frustrating given it is such a large investment but I would recommend you go back to your dealer or another dealer in your area and have them call Mathews. Explain your position to Mathews to see if they would swap your limbs out for you at no cost or maybe just the cost of labor. [=}=] [=}=]

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    January 4, 2013 at 2:59 am #545953 Back to Top REPORT
    backhalfed
    backhalfed

    Joined: 10/5/2007
    Location: Ohio
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    Your problem should be with your dealer first off,He is the one that didn’t answer the questions and set you up with the right stuff!

    Your bow being a 70Lb bow drop the draw weight,it will back down to 60lbs and seehow it shoots for you there.

    In your one post you say “Bows” as in two ,if your just getting into this and funds are a little tight why 2 bows?[/quote:3r1nx1ve]

    One bow buy was a cheap ebay close-out…before I got the Mathews. Its at 60lbs now and it sucks, I can only draw it back 5-6 times and my arm is to tired to draw it back anymore. I had it set at 50lbs and it was perfect. Dealer wont do anything, I think I’m done with him…I’m so %$#@! off and hurt right now I cant even see strait.[/quote:3r1nx1ve]

    I would be too more than likely if he didn’t get you set up right! IMO what you could do is get ahold of Mathews and see if they could maybe help you out since your dealer decided not to. and if that don’t work out you could order other limbs and sell the 70lbrs and get some of the money back.

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