I can only get my helium to tune with the center shot at 3/4 and my cam lean has the arrow (when placed on left side of idler) barely crossing the string at the nocking point. Is this too much? I have read about having a 1/8 gap on left side of string but the only way the string will track straight off the idler at full draw with that setting is if I grip the bow like a hammer and physically twist the riser. The only arrows it will tune with are my axis 340 at 28″ with a 125g point. Same with 100g won’t tune, which it should, right? Not hand torque because exact same results with different grip styles and other shooters. I also get a tail high tear and broadheads hit low and right no matter where my nocking point is. I thought maybe a weak arrow but this bow will not tune with a 400 spine. I get great arrow flight with settings mentioned above, just something doesn’t seem right. I know this is a lot of info but any thoughts are appreciated!
70 lb helium 28″ draw, axis 340 28″ 125 point, truball short and sweet.to the forum…
Many HeliMs were close to touching string at their optinum…not crossed to bows right tho…
Joined: 10/14/2006Tune the yoke so your idler is straight at full draw. I think your spine should be correct if your arrows are 27″. A 400 spine is too weak for your setup.
Tune the yoke so your idler is straight at full draw. I think your spine should be correct if your arrows are 27″. A 400 spine is too weak for your setup.
Didnt notice that. ..@70 lb a .400 is way too weak..a .340 Min is suggested
Joined: 9/19/2007The arrow on idler spec changes with the Helim because of the deeper cutout in riser. As mentioned above, it will be closer to center line of string at knock point. Most importantly, have string tracking straight off at full draw. As far as your center shot, I would say that you are good to go. 3/4″ or 12/16″ is not an unusual place to be. Mine tuned exactly at this measurement.
… I also get a tail high tear and broadheads hit low and right no matter where my nocking point is. …
This is typical of fletch contact resulting from improper rest setup/timing/alignment, etc.
What arrow rest and what vanes are you using?That was my first thought as well but I’m not getting fletching contact, put lipstick on the entire vanes and shot them a few times, no contact. None on cables either.Use the foot powder on the last 4″ of the entire shaft. The vane tips may not be what is contacting, it could be the shaft or nock, especially if there is rest ‘bounce-back’.
What about the question, “What rest are you using?”
Also, check for nock pinch and fit.Ultrarest LD. Tried the powder, no contact. As for nock pinch, I actually had to reserve it when I first bought it, I could move it with my fingers. Reserved it with .021 and now it’s perfect. I’m getting good arrow flight and late elk is here so I’m just going to move my sight.
Tried the powder, no contact. As for nock pinch, I actually had to reserve it when I first bought it, I could move it with my fingers. Reserved it with .021 and now it’s perfect.
Thats nock fit… ..Nock pinch is if nock is pinched between nock points when bow is drawn…EX top and bottom loop knot too close …
I have seen pinch actually raise arrow off or push onto rest…
You must be logged in to reply to this topic. Click here to log into your account.