What tuning methods do you use?

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This topic contains 27 replies, has 20 contributors, and was last updated by machinegun74 machinegun74 7 years, 8 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 28 total)
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  • February 2, 2007 at 6:19 pm #495391 Back to Top REPORT
    l-o-s-t-arrow
    L.O.S.T.Arrow

    Joined: 5/16/2006
    Location: Alberta
    :D Recent postings calling paper tuning “crap” has me baffled so I was just wondering what everyone’s preference was for tuning methods.

    We have used all these methods for thirty years so none are new; all are IMO valuable for results
    [Although I never had any faith in bare shaft tuning unless a non- existent -non directional target was used for part of the test]

    Many have praised, “Walk back tuning” as the “end all” method, however many variables are overlooked, WBT is an outstanding method of grouping arrows and center shot, but doesn’t tell all.

    This is not to bash any method as I value anything that improves my shooting capabilities–Just wanted to see what in your opinion was the main method you use.

    :thumbup Neil

    February 2, 2007 at 6:25 pm #509362 Back to Top REPORT



    Joined: 5/24/2004
    i voted none, last year was my first season and i just jumped right in and learned alot. now my bow just got out of the shop after a good tear down and cleaning and lubing and now its off to get a custom string/cable installed, an sts and torqueless qill behere to greet my bow on its return hopefully and then i will use AL of the tuning methods on here until i find the one that fits me best. :thumbup :thumbup
    February 2, 2007 at 6:26 pm #509363 Back to Top REPORT
    jeff-k-in-il
    Jeff K in IL

    Age: 26
    Joined: 11/1/2005
    All of the above, except for Bare Shaft Tuning… [=}=]
    February 2, 2007 at 6:30 pm #509364 Back to Top REPORT
    vince71969
    vince71969


    Joined: 7/5/2004
    View My Bows
    All of the above, except for Bare Shaft Tuning… [=}=]

    Same here :thumbup

    February 2, 2007 at 9:12 pm #509365 Back to Top REPORT
    l-o-s-t-arrow
    L.O.S.T.Arrow

    Joined: 5/16/2006
    Location: Alberta
    :D interesting :-B
    February 2, 2007 at 9:16 pm #509366 Back to Top REPORT

    PETERSONRJ

    Joined: 8/15/2006
    I do all of the above. :thumbup
    February 2, 2007 at 9:21 pm #509367 Back to Top REPORT
    carbon-arch
    CARBON-ARCH

    Joined: 10/10/2004
    I have traditionally just paper tuned however I am going to give walk back tuning a try.
    February 2, 2007 at 9:53 pm #509368 Back to Top REPORT



    Joined: 5/24/2004
    I haven’t used WBT yet, only paper tuning. When you’re shooting bullet holes, arrows fly with no nock movement and grouping well, how much better can it get?? Evidently they all work. One may be quicker and easier than the other but in the end, I think you’ll get the same results.
    February 2, 2007 at 9:54 pm #509369 Back to Top REPORT



    Joined: 5/24/2004
    I bare shaft tune with my longbow. Paper tune with compounds.
    February 2, 2007 at 10:12 pm #509370 Back to Top REPORT

    One Shot

    Joined: 7/17/2004
    I’ve had great success using paper and eastons tuning methods to get same POI with field points and broadheads.
    February 2, 2007 at 10:36 pm #509371 Back to Top REPORT
    gjarcher
    gjarcher

    Age: 71
    Joined: 10/3/2006
    Location: Colorado
    View My Bows
    Ecclesiastes 3:1 There is an appointed time for everything, and a time for every affair under the heavens.[/size:192uj8t3]
    If you want a well tuned bow, then IMO you start with paper tuning, progress to walk back tuning, then micro tune at 40 yards using Easton’s Tuning guide.

    However, I do not believe a person should become frustrated because they cannot achieve a bullet hole in paper and so never get beyond that point. There is a time to acknowledge the best that can be achieved and move on to the next phase. This is an excerpt from the Mathews 2006-2007 Owners Manual:
    “Before beginning, It’s important to know that perfect “bullet holes” are not always possible with all shooters. Light tears are quite acceptable and will not deter accuracy. Fine tuning requires patience and consistent shooting form. Perfect results are only achieved with perfect form. Also, remember to always do your final sightings with broadheads before hunting.”[/i:192uj8t3]

    February 2, 2007 at 10:46 pm #509372 Back to Top REPORT
    svail798
    SVail798

    Joined: 11/27/2005

    Ecclesiastes 3:1 There is an appointed time for everything, and a time for every affair under the heavens.
    If you want a well tuned bow, then IMO you start with paper tuning, progress to walk back tuning, then micro tune at 40 yards using Easton’s Tuning guide.

    However, I do not believe a person should become frustrated because they cannot achieve a bullet hole in paper and so never get beyond that point. There is a time to acknowledge the best that can be achieved and move on to the next phase. This is an excerpt from the Mathews 2006-2007 Owners Manual:
    “Before beginning, It’s important to know that perfect “bullet holes” are not always possible with all shooters. Light tears are quite acceptable and will not deter accuracy. Fine tuning requires patience and consistent shooting form. Perfect results are only achieved with perfect form. Also, remember to always do your final sightings with broadheads before hunting.”[/i:3kyrkpf1][/quote:3kyrkpf1]

    :agree

    February 2, 2007 at 11:29 pm #509373 Back to Top REPORT
    bow4life
    bow4life


    Joined: 8/17/2004
    I agree that people get too obsessed with a good papertune, there are too many reasons a bullethole won’t be achieved by some. With that said, I papertune and then verify my resilts with line tuning, walkback tuning, and grouptuning. I also line tune with broadheads. [=}=]
    February 3, 2007 at 12:01 am #509374 Back to Top REPORT
    lane
    Lane

    Joined: 7/9/2005
    Paper Tuning :thumbup
    February 3, 2007 at 12:08 am #509375 Back to Top REPORT
    nippers
    Nippers

    Joined: 1/10/2006
    I use it all……..even the bare shaft tuning………just to see if I’m getting fletching contact (If I get the same kind of tear with the bare shaft as with the vaned shaft, I know it’s not vane contact) which I like doing instead of marking up my gear with powder, lipstick and such

    I did find out (5 months of shooting this set up) that you shouldn’t assume the pro shop to do a bang up job every time……….I found some mistakes with my set up that I wouldn’t have caught unless I started shooting in the league, and started wondering if there’s anything I could do to get better accuracy…..so I started going over my gear with a fine tooth comb and found some stuff that just wasn’t correct (thanks to the info here) [=}=]

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