Location: OhioI have a helium 60# limbs. Noticed my groups starting to open up a bit. Maxed out my limbs and checked weight. Only 58.5 lbs. Also checked and corected IWL. Then looked at the timing window and noticed the cable is sitting a little above center in the window.
ATA is right at 30″ and BH is sitting dead on at 7″.
Next steps????HeliM 27.5@56lbs Easton Bloodline 400's/ CX Blue Streak 250 Truball Max 4 /Short n Sweet/KtechAdd two and a half twists to buss cable.Mathews S2 / Copper John 4-pin / QAD HD LD / Worlds Best Strings / 808 Bowslings / Easton Bloodlines
Location: VirginiaGive the cable a twistTwisting up the cable will put the cam back in time, and likely increase the DW. However, you may then find the bow ATA is off and bow tune (nock height, rest timing) is off.
It sounds like the cable has crept in length, a normal occurrence, so it is likely the string has too. It would be better to just have the bow put back in spec, cam timed, reset rest timing if a fall away and paper tune from scratch. You’ll be happier in the long run.
Location: AlbertaPM returned..
NeilI have a helim with 70lb limbs. I’m having similar problems. I can twist up the string and cable to get the bow into spec but I can’t get the draw weight to spec. The most I get out of my bow is 67 lbs. I can’t figure it out really either. I’ve got the string running through the timing hole perfectly. Brace at 7″ and ATA right on at 30″. I don’t know what to doI would add a twist to the cable and see where you stand with that. Even from the factory the Helims come with the cam advanced a little, and they usually pull about 70# at that setting. If you are still in the timing window you are okay. You can twist up the cable a little more but remember to untwist the string the same amount . Note that you really should not exceed one twist per inch in either the string or cable.Mathews S2 / Copper John 4-pin / QAD HD LD / Worlds Best Strings / 808 Bowslings / Easton BloodlinesThis all started after I had my shop put a new string on my bow. I wanna do a reset. How many twists should I put into the string and cable for an initial setup?
Location: TexasPM me if you still need advise.Pull Shoot Score
PM me if you still need advise.
I’m sure others could benefit from him working through his issue. No need to take it behind the curtain. We like to hear success stories.Mathews S2 / Copper John 4-pin / QAD HD LD / Worlds Best Strings / 808 Bowslings / Easton Bloodlines…Anyone know this?
This all started after I had my shop put a new string on my bow. I wanna do a reset. How many twists should I put into the string and cable for an initial setup?
The range of recommended twists in string and cable is no more than one twist/inch and no less than one twist in 2″. For Initial setup, I put one twist in 1.5″ in both the string and cable. This usually works out for the life of the string, so after two years of resetting the bow to spec to correct for string creep, there is about one twist/inch remaining.
New strings should come clipped together at the ends to preserve the number of twists/inch that the maker used to get the AMO length correct. I try to take care to first install the string and cable without loosing the twists/inch the maker used to see where the specs fall. If I happen to lose the twist count for some reason, or like in your case the maker’s number of twists have been lost, I fall back to one twist in 1.5″.
I’ve found it best to work BOTH the string and cable when setting the bow to specs. If you work one or the other, it is possible to get one carrying more load (tension) making the other not doing its share of the work in the power cycle. This can lead to a noisy bow. I try to keep the twists/inch count near equal on the string and cable, and when they are plucked like a guitar string when at brace, the sound should be nearly the same (same tension/load).
Occasionally, after market strings will have a different overall o.d. at the end serving due to different strand counts, different materials, and different serving diameter. This can alter the peak DW when the string/cable lay deeper or rides higher in the cam/idler track. If this is the case, you might have to go about 1/8″ short on ATA to get the rated peak DW.
Since your shop put the string on, I’d take the problem back to them and have them get it back to peak DW and cam timed, even if the ATA and BH are slightly off … specs are approximate, not set in concrete … hope this helps.
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