I have heard that you should keep a small gap between your string stop and your string (like 1/8 inch). Is this something that anyone else has heard or experimented with? I’m shooting the Chill and have noticed a little more noise than usual. Just wondering if this would be the issue?http://mathewsinc.com/product/dead-end-string-stop/ This should answer your question.
Joined: 9/19/2007In my experience, I found that having the string just touching the stop produces the best results.
Joined: 2/25/2009This will help. Mathews recommends lightly touching the string.
Location: INI have the K-Tech version on my Helim and if I am not mistaken, I think they recommend about a credit card width gap between the stop and the string. That is how mine is set up and works great! If you are getting some noise, check the set screws on the carbon rod as they are notorious for working loose. That was an issue on mine prior to switching to the K-Tech. Hope this helps! Good luck!The original string stops were made of hard single-stage rubber, and a ‘credit card’ gap of about 1/16″ was recommened. However, as technology moved on, string stops became made of softer, dual-compression rubbers, and the recommendation changed to ‘lightly touching’ the string.
STS was the pioneer in the string stop. Here is STS’s current recommendation:
STS Rear Mount - The STS rear mount affixes to the rear (or inside) stabilizer hole in the riser of your bow. The new E.D.S. ( Extreme Dampening System) stopper on the end of the STS should be barely touching your string once installed correctly. When you shoot your bow, the string will contact the E.D.S. stopper, thus stopping the normal forward travel of the string. Instead of traveling past the string’s resting point (a common cause for wrist/forearm string slap and many errors cause by movement during the shot), the string is stopped at the resting point. This allows you to be more accurate without the worry of string slap or fouled shots due to excessive movement. In addition, the STS system is an effective dampener. This will allow you to remove the speed robbing string silencing accessories, thus giving you more speed.Included with the STS system is serving material. Though not likely needed, you can wrap this around your bowstring where it contacts the rubber stopper to ensure that there is no excessive string wear. For those of you who prefer not to serve your string, please use some extra bow string wax in the area the E.D.S. stopper will come into contact with your string.
Also, included in the new STS’s is a BigJax rod dampener made by the BowJax Co. Slide this onto your STS rod to take out additional shock and vibration.
The new E.D.S. stopper is made from a softer rubber material to make it more quiet and more absorbing for noise and vibration. It is our most effective E.D.S. stopper made to date.
Location: VICTORIAHere’s a machinist’s tip, plasticine… it’s cheaper than after-market string suppressors. Pack it around the String Stop rod (about where that guy screws into your Riser). I’d say put a generous pinch of plasticine on the front-side either end of the riser but Mathews spotted that one already, on my Chill R and most of their other bows too. Dampen the string slap decibels coming from the String Stop rubber cap with some adhesive gauze strips (bandaging). I used a BIC Marker ‘pen’ to color mine Black, same color as the rubber cap over the String Stop: so my bow doesn’t look cheap ..or injured.
Apply gauze in a ‘+’ criss-cross with the crossed gauze strips centered over the rubber end. Now the bow string, resting at Brace Height, can lightly brush the string stop even while swiveled up closer to String center point (shorten the oscillating wave harmonics over the free pitch length between cams). Shorter wave period means faster noise quell too. But anyway, plasticine… that’s the tip.The end sucks
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