Sight pins left

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This topic contains 23 replies, has 12 contributors, and was last updated by  richmcc3 10 months, 4 weeks ago.

Viewing 9 posts - 16 through 24 (of 24 total)
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  • January 6, 2014 at 8:10 am #614314 Back to Top REPORT
    bigrobc
    bigrobc

    Age: 34
    Joined: 1/26/2011
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    Thx fellas. Will try some suggestions. All responses appreciated. Rob
    January 10, 2014 at 10:56 am #614832 Back to Top REPORT
    theflube
    theflube

    Age: 32
    Joined: 1/7/2014
    Location: Iowa
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    I was true at 20 yards but 3-4 inches left at 30 yards.  To me it showed that the rest was off and needed to be moved.  Check out this youtube video.  Pretty good showing the basics of tuning.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f25Wr1EULRg&list=FLqC7WbGBuwR3nMuYawPTYaQ

    I did this with my bow and it is a tack driver.  Dead on.  Things I never had heard of as a newer shooter.  Good Luck.

    January 10, 2014 at 12:05 pm #614833 Back to Top REPORT
    bow-drawn
    Bow Drawn

    Joined: 11/14/2007
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    I was true at 20 yards but 3-4 inches left at 30 yards. To me it showed that the rest was off and needed to be moved. Check out this youtube video. Pretty good showing the basics of tuning. 

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f25Wr1EULRg&list=FLqC7WbGBuwR3nMuYawPTYaQ

    I did this with my bow and it is a tack driver. Dead on. Things I never had heard of as a newer shooter. Good Luck.

    Great method. Some folks call that walk back tuning and you can find it on here. After you have done all this then I’d recommend putting on some fixed broad heads to see how well your tuned with them.

    January 10, 2014 at 5:40 pm #614866 Back to Top REPORT

    MOhunter92

    Age: 22
    Joined: 10/28/2013
    Location: MO
    It’s ok for the pins to be to the left a bit. Look at the string angle of it, mathews solocams strings tilt to the left from the top idler wheel to the bottom cam. Like this / so that’s normal.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    January 11, 2014 at 10:00 am #614896 Back to Top REPORT
    gjarcher
    gjarcher

    Age: 71
    Joined: 10/3/2006
    Location: Colorado
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    To be slightly left is normal for a RH shooter, but to be way far left is not normal. At brace, the pins appear slightly left because the riser torques under full draw, bringing the pins inward, in line with the string path.

    As I said earlier. If the Third Axis is off, that is if the sight head is not square to the arrow at full draw, then either the pins or the entire sight head windage must be moved to compensate when shooting level, which results in the pins being way too far left. In some cases, I’ve seen where the sight’s windage runs out of adjustment. After resetting the Third Axis, it is advisable to readjust the sight’s windage for left/right  POI at very close range, since it is not uncommon for the POI to shift 12″ or more at 20 yds, and be completely off the target butt/bag at 30+ yds.

    Set the sight level with the bow plumb, this is the 2nd Axis. Then check the Third Axis, which is how much the sight head is angled toward or away from the shooter’s eye/sight-target line. This video is a quick and dirty explanation of setting 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Axis on a bowsight, and the method is good enough for bowhunting situations. For competitive archery, actually shooting the bow on steep up/down shots at extended ranges and fine tuning the sight head Third Axis to keep the arrow POI on the vertical fall line is the most precise method.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WX6ik-Ed5kk

    January 11, 2014 at 5:26 pm #614940 Back to Top REPORT
    bigrobc
    bigrobc

    Age: 34
    Joined: 1/26/2011
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    Thx brian. Awesome advise being thati didnt know how to adjust 3rd axis. Although im still a bit confused lol. I will check out some videis
    January 12, 2014 at 9:49 am #615033 Back to Top REPORT
    gjarcher
    gjarcher

    Age: 71
    Joined: 10/3/2006
    Location: Colorado
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    To properly setup a sight, it must be square to all three axis in order for it to be accurate. In a 3 dimensional world, there are three axis, commonly referred to as the X, Y, & Z axises.

    3rd_Axis

    The 1st Axis is the face of the scope/sighthead in reference to the sight target line. Fixed sightheads are factory installed to be square, so there isn’t anything to adjust. However, using a scope that mounts onto a sight, like the Sure-Loc, etc. , the bow should be plumbed and the scope head 1st Axis squared.

    The 2nd Axis places the scope/sighthead level in reference to the sight-target line.

    The 3rd Axis places the scope/sight head square to the sight-target line under full draw conditions. Because the riser twists/torques due to bow hand pressure and cable guard pressure, etc., this adjustment is best done by the individual archer, under full draw conditions. For a RH shooter, with the bow at brace, the sight head normally will be slightly turned toward the shooter.

    With the sight squared in all three axis, under full draw conditions, the sight bubble will remain centered regardless of shot angle, as long as the bow is held plumb and bow hand pressure is consistent.

    … hope this makes sense and helps. {#emotions_dlg.mathews_peace}

    January 23, 2014 at 8:50 pm #616436 Back to Top REPORT

    mnydir

    Joined: 1/24/2014
    Yours looks the exact same as mine. I was wondering the same thing you were. Maybe its normal. They must torque a lot at full draw
    January 24, 2014 at 8:01 am #616453 Back to Top REPORT

    richmcc3

    Joined: 1/21/2012
    Mathews are not what I call a center shot bow like mentioned above string runs at an angle  13/16 is a starting point paper tune to get close then walk back tune I walk back tune to at least 40 yards you will tune in better at longer yards. sometimes I skip paper tuning all together I have never had broad heads hit different than my field points . this is for left right I do paper tune for knock height
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