I have my center shot close to where it is suppose to be but was curious after paper tuning. I picked up a tip from someone and it was to nock and then run another arrow along side the nocked arrow with is clamped to the riser cut out. It makes sense that the arrow would run parallel to the riser cut out but when I do this the gap is closer at the nock and farther at the tip. Is this correct?Oh and it is a Reezen 7.0.
Joined: 12/21/2010Did it shoot good holes through paper?Below are some photos I took. I also wanted to find out about my axle to axle which should be 32″. Do I need to shorten this up? If so how do I achieve this once in a press? I assume I put twist in the string but what part of the string?
Also the bow is shooting well. I have bullet holes through paper and walk back tuned. The center shot is at approx. 11/16″.
Joined: 7/16/201311/16ths is where they tune up most of the time. I recommend when measuring ata to start at the 1 inch mark on the tape measure because the hook moves and you will get a more accurate measurement. But it does look like you need to add 2 twists to the cable and two twists into each end of the string. Make sure to add equal amount of twists to each end of the string otherwise you will unbalance your string and cause peep rotation problems.Ok I got the idler straight and went back to paper tuning. It took 2 twist left and 7 right to get about 1/8″ of string (as Neil said in his guide). I had a severe left tear with rest at 11/16″ . I moved the rest to 5/8″ and still bad left tear. The only way I could get it out was to slowly go back to the idler lean \ . I had to basically put it back close the where it was. After taking to a Mathews tech he wants me to insure it is pulling straight at full draw. I can’t see how it can be pulling straight at draw when it already starts top left bottom right. Looks like I need to make a draw board so I can really confirm this. I don’t trust any of my buddies to tell me its straight. Any other thoughts?Just to update for people in the future. I made a draw board to insure the string was pulling straight off the idler wheel at full draw (which it was not). To adjust I put twists in the yoke. I confirmed this by eye balling and also running an arrow along the idler to the nock point at full draw and made sure it was parallel. Unfortunately, I lost track of twists in the yoke but it is close to 2 in the left and 5 in the right.
With bow at rest, placing an arrow on the idler wheel, the side of the arrow touching the idler wheel is flush with the inside of the string at the nock point. Which means the idler wheel is top left and bottom right like this \. To me this seems odd because the idler is actually fighting against the angle the roller guard is putting on the string and cable to become vertical ( or have the string pull off straight) as the bow is drawn. This is unlike most other Mathews which start with the idler at rest like this /. Then once the bow is drawn the induced pressure from the roller guard pulls the idler wheel over to perfectly vertical | at full draw. So the 1/8″ of the string at nock point (arrow shaft on idler at rest) did not even put me close to pulling straight of the idler at full draw like most other Mathews bow. I knew the rest was going to have to be close to 5/8″ from the riser so I set it there and was shooting bullet holes. Walk back tuning also confirm this. At 5/8″ I still have clearance from the string and cable near the roller guard with NAP quikfletch.
Though this bow is not Mathews best work, it has taught me a great deal about tuning since it is probably the most difficult Mathews bow to tune since parallel limbs.
And remember this bow is very sensitive to hand torque. Make sure your grip is consistent even with “torque-less” grips when trying to tune. And I also recommend a stiffer arrow, especially if you are inside 5/8″ and you know your arrow is on the line of being to weak.
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