Two inch down tear if arrow is not on rest like shown. Wife has two Prestiges and both have same problem. New strings and all spec are right on. Had it at a Pro shop for two weeks and they could not tell me why or fix angle of arrow. Have to loosen botton Limb at least two turns to make it tear right which takes specs go out. Any one else had this problem with this bow. We have 8 mathews bows and these are the only ones I have touble with. Help any ideas why this is happening would be appreicated.I’m having problems envisioning what you are saying. The pic shows incredibly nock high, rest not in full up position or improperly mounted (not level) … don’t know what to make of all that.
The fact you have two Prestiges with the same problem is probably more related to who is setting them up than the bows’ themselves.
Here is my Prestige … nock height just a hair over 3/16″, center shot about 11/16″, arrow centered on berger hole, limbs max backed off 1/8th turn, shown in the ‘Capture’ position, not full up position as your pic appears. Shooting 29″ Victory VForce 350 w/ 125 gr broadhead/FP
20 yd, FP and BH near same POI…plenty time to fine tune and set sights for up coming season this fall.The way the picture is shown is the only way it will not tear two inches down. If I set it like it is in your picture which I know is right it tears down bad. The rest will lift a little at full draw. I have always set up all our bows and no problem with the rest of them. I have no Idea why it does what it does has me baffled. Limbs all the way down, arrow across berger button holes and ata and bh right and stright down tear. I am Lost.If the bows are in spec (ATA & Cam Rotation) and meet peak DW, then you’ll have to have the dealer send them to Mathews to troubleshoot the limb deflections. Although, hard to believe two bows would have the same limb deflection issues unless someone swapped limbs from one bow to the other.
Run a string from axle to axle and measure from limb pocket to reference string with limb bolts maxed … Tiller should be within 1/8″.
I will try that. Never thought about axle to axle instead from limb pocket to string. I am sure the knocking point is moving when drawing the bow to full draw just could not think of why. Maybe I will change limbs from top to bottom and see if things change. Thanks for the Help.FWIW, I measured my Prestige with reference string from axle center to axle center, limb pocket to reference string:
- This reply was modified 2 years ago by gjarcher.
Upper Limb 7-0″
Lower Limb 7-0″Did the measurement. Top limb 7″ bottom limb 7 1/8 so there is a difference. Is that too much ?It shouldn’t be too much, actually pretty normal to have -1/8″ Tiller … back off the top limb one-half turn and you should be able to setup the nock height at 3/16″ above perpendicular and centershot at about 11/16″ and have a fairly good paper tear.
FWIW, I rarely measure and set Static tiller anymore except when I’m troubleshooting. I set the rest when full up to support the arrow at the berger hole, set nock height about 3/16″ above perpendicular, make sure cam rotation/timing is set, then draw and sight on target. Once on target, I start pulling into the wall, if the sight wants to climb, back off 1/4-turn on top limb, if it wants to drop, correct lower limb, until you can come on target and pull hard into the wall with the sight holding steady … another way to do this is to use a very long stabilizer and observe what the end of it does as you pull harder. This method will balance Dynamic Tiller of the limbs.
Some other things I would check first is rest mounting, timing, and fletch clearance.
– The rest must be mounted horizontal when the bow is plumb. That way when in the full up position the launcher will not be leaning away from or toward the string. Leaning toward the string is the worst case, since the launcher will lift the arrow as it raises to rotate forward. Leaning away from the string will cause the rest to drop prematurely/inconsistently and string out the arrow’s POI vertically, with changes in nock height not correcting the group’s vertical spread.
– Use spay foot powder on the last 4″ or so of the shaft and fletch to see if there is any contact. No spray foot powder?… shoot a fletched shaft and bare shaft at 10′, they should have the same POI. If not, then fletch contact with cables or launcher is suspect. Inspect the fletch to see if there are rub marks, that’s a ‘red flag’. Inspect the launcher for wear … if the wear is on one side or the other then centershot is off and can result in fletch contact as well as the shaft climbs the launcher arm.
– Check rest timing by shooting cock vane up, then cock vane down, it should clear both ways and the arrows should have same POI.
… hope this helps.Just tried switching limbs top to bottom and limbs all the way down. Rest all the way up and arrow slightly high nock. Still 2 in tear stright down. tiller is the same now at 7 inches. Had to loosen bottom limb bolt three turns to shoot bullet hole. When at rest with three turns out it has the slant like first picture but when fully drawn it changes to almost level. Do not understand why nocking point changes. Changes cam to a longer draw length and same thing. Will go back out and check everything you said again. Thanks again for the help. Pro shop gave up long time ago.
… Do not understand why nocking point changes…
It almost sounds like the outlet feed and inlet feed are not designed for the bow. First things that come to mind are:
– Does the cam say Prestige on it?… is it the correct handedness, R/L? … not Apex 7 or some other cam?
– is the idler wheel a small wheel, about 2-1/4″ diameter?
I’m assuming there is no play in the top limb bolt as the bow is drawn, so the limb isn’t moving in the pocket.
Also, are you the original owner? If so, this is shaping up to be a Mathews Warranty issue.Yes bought them both brand new. Limb bolts and everything seem fine when I reversed limbs. Cams both say Prestige and both are 25 ” cams R handed. Idler wheels are 2 1/4 . Everything seems good. She has been shooting them with the angle shown and the bottom limb backed out but when I put new strings on one I thought I would try to fix it knowing that its not right. About ready to give up. Thanks again for the replys and help.I can understand your frustration. At this point, if it were me, I’d take one of the bows to the dealer and tell him if he can’t solve the problem, to send the bow to Mathews on warranty repair. Depending on what Mathews says/finds, send the second bow in later or get dealer to fix based on Mathews’ solution. I suspect that you’ll get a complete rebuild, if not a completely new bow.
At least that way the wife will have a bow to shoot in the interim … peace in the house, Priceless.PS – one last thought.
Is the rest coming up in the last 1/2″ or less of full draw. If the rest comes up way too early it would be like short-stringing the cable, throwing the whole bow out of whack.
Sorry for all these questions that must seem a nuisance, I’m sure you’ve been over all this many times.Rest is a QAD Pro that she lifts with her thumb, the last little pit lifts when at full draw only. It drops fast enough that there is no contact with powder on arrow or any where else. Don’t mind the questions at all as they might hit on something I have missed. She has a Passion she can shoot also but likes her Prestige’s better.
Over a hundred miles to take bow to a shop so have learned to do most everything myself. Guess I will make a trip down the hill and drop it off one of these days. We have a big shoot coming up the first week end in August. Always over 300 shooters and she always shoots it and was wanting to get serious about practice.
Joined: 12/21/2010Have you tried a different rest?
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