New on here having issues with my Creed

Home Forums Archery Tech Forum New on here having issues with my Creed

This topic contains 24 replies, has 9 contributors, and was last updated by  Austinlindsey76 1 year, 4 months ago.

Viewing 10 posts - 16 through 25 (of 25 total)
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  • August 4, 2013 at 6:26 pm #587228 Back to Top REPORT

    N spencer

    Joined: 2/10/2013
    Location: N.C.
    Do your self a favor and find yourself a dealer that knows what their doing and appreciates your business, even if it means to drive 3 or 4 hours. That’s what I had to do and it was worth all the time and money I spent.
    August 5, 2013 at 6:22 pm #587502 Back to Top REPORT
    gjarcher
    gjarcher

    Age: 71
    Joined: 10/3/2006
    Location: Colorado
    View My Bows
    Shooting bullet holes through paper is just a starting point, paper tuning is a basic method. Mostly, it is useful for a dealer to show that the bow is ready to go out the door, it does not guarantee optimal accuracy or good broadhead flight … refer to Easton’s Arrow Tuning and Maintenance Guide, page 9.

    The picture you posted shows the cam under rotated. I’d be surprised if you can get rated DW out of the limbs.

    As far as corkscrewing arrow flight, that shows the nock height and centershot are not properly set.

    You can fuss and fret with the dealer about tuning, or do it your self. Easton’s Guide gives enough information on paper tuning and Fine tuning and Broadhead tuning to get the bow shooting its best.{#emotions_dlg.mathews_peace}

    August 5, 2013 at 9:39 pm #587534 Back to Top REPORT

    ratgts

    Joined: 4/12/2013
    that seems to be a big problem with the dealers not knowing the product. i know how to work on bow more. and i wont let them touch mine.  I also have to drive about 2hrs to a good dealer who himself has issues with Mathews support…….  Mathews customer service is even worst I think they only know one phrase “take it to you local dealer” we already got your money don’t care if it works…. I wanted to get the focus grip but now if something doesn’t work right they wont support it!!!!!!!!
    August 6, 2013 at 3:39 am #587568 Back to Top REPORT
    straightedge123
    StraightEdge123

    Joined: 10/22/2007
    With those signs, as Brian said, you are looking at nock height and/or centershot issues.  Do one adjustment at a time and be careful about hand torque and keeping your bow arm up and having a smooth follow-through.  You can get through it.
    Mathews S2 / Copper John 4-pin / QAD HD LD / Worlds Best Strings / 808 Bowslings / Easton Bloodlines
    August 9, 2013 at 1:37 am #588098 Back to Top REPORT

    Austinlindsey76

    Age: 38
    Joined: 7/30/2013
    Location: NV
    So listen to this. After 2 bow shops telling me my bow was fine (1 that I bought the bow at and they set it up which I’ve been back 4 times to now) I decided screw it I will start tinkering with it myself. I started to do a bare shaft test which was highly advised against by the bow shops. I started messing with the rest and getting weird results. I went to lower the rest and found that the whole rest was loose. Tightened it up shot 2 groups bareshaft testing. Dead on. Shot my 3 different types of broadheads today out to 50 yards in the wind. All 3 in a 3 inch circle. Thanks everyone for the help!
    August 9, 2013 at 7:25 am #588108 Back to Top REPORT
    mathews-technical
    Mathews Technical


    Joined: 7/16/2013
    I am glad it was something simple and you got it figured out.{#emotions_dlg.mathews_thumbs_up}
    August 13, 2013 at 4:39 pm #589344 Back to Top REPORT

    nicklewhat?

    Joined: 8/11/2013
    Location: ok
    AustinLindsay,

    I feel your pain brother, I think it is sage advice to learn to tune your own stuff regardless of how skilled your bow shop tech is.  BOC has a good point.  I don’t like the fact that Mathews has positioned themselves with local dealers as a protective layer between them and the customers.  We should be able to be in direct contact with the company without a layer of goofs between us.  Anyway, my real point is this, you can get the corkscrew out of your arrow flight.  I have done it lots. Often I have found I get a slight corkscrew when my rest is a bit out of tune.  With drop away rests, you may be getting a tiny bit of “bounce back” from the drop away launcher arm of the rest.  You can place some baby powder or white foot powder on your arrow fletching and then shot the arrow.  Inspect both your arrow and rest launcher arm to see if an of the white powder is rubbed off and hitting where it should not.  Also another suspect area is the down cable adjacent to the arrow rest.  There is like nano clearance there now days and if you have your centershot out of true center or your fletching vanes are slightly too wide, you will get contact there causing the arrow to jump left coming off the rest and then correcting in flight back to the right which looks like a corkscrew.  If you shoot with both eyes open you will better be able to see this.  Don’t fret too much because you can fix the problem.  Just tweak around with your arrow rest moving it in or out until you get the result you want.  Keep in mind that these bows now days will bullet hole on paper with just about anything if you are standing 6 ft or more away.  The arrows correct themselves in a very short distance.  Remember this, you can have correctly spined arrows cut too long or with too light or too heavy of a point and make them fly bad.  By the same token, you can make incorrectly spined arrows also fly correctly by adjusting length and tip weight.  So, it is definately a complex matter and that is at the root of techs not really wanting to jump in a telL you how to fix your problem. There are just so many variables that affect bow performance and that makes them helping you difficult.  And at the end of the day, they don’t want to help you when they can sell a bow to someone else.  Selling a bow is easy to do and they like easy.  You care more about your bow performance than anyone.

    August 14, 2013 at 6:52 am #589443 Back to Top REPORT

    Austinlindsey76

    Age: 38
    Joined: 7/30/2013
    Location: NV

    AustinLindsay,

    I feel your pain brother, I think it is sage advice to learn to tune your own stuff regardless of how skilled your bow shop tech is. BOC has a good point. I don’t like the fact that Mathews has positioned themselves with local dealers as a protective layer between them and the customers. We should be able to be in direct contact with the company without a layer of goofs between us. Anyway, my real point is this, you can get the corkscrew out of your arrow flight. I have done it lots. Often I have found I get a slight corkscrew when my rest is a bit out of tune. With drop away rests, you may be getting a tiny bit of “bounce back” from the drop away launcher arm of the rest. You can place some baby powder or white foot powder on your arrow fletching and then shot the arrow. Inspect both your arrow and rest launcher arm to see if an of the white powder is rubbed off and hitting where it should not. Also another suspect area is the down cable adjacent to the arrow rest. There is like nano clearance there now days and if you have your centershot out of true center or your fletching vanes are slightly too wide, you will get contact there causing the arrow to jump left coming off the rest and then correcting in flight back to the right which looks like a corkscrew. If you shoot with both eyes open you will better be able to see this. Don’t fret too much because you can fix the problem. Just tweak around with your arrow rest moving it in or out until you get the result you want. Keep in mind that these bows now days will bullet hole on paper with just about anything if you are standing 6 ft or more away. The arrows correct themselves in a very short distance. Remember this, you can have correctly spined arrows cut too long or with too light or too heavy of a point and make them fly bad. By the same token, you can make incorrectly spined arrows also fly correctly by adjusting length and tip weight. So, it is definately a complex matter and that is at the root of techs not really wanting to jump in a telL you how to fix your problem. There are just so many variables that affect bow performance and that makes them helping you difficult. And at the end of the day, they don’t want to help you when they can sell a bow to someone else. Selling a bow is easy to do and they like easy. You care more about your bow performance than anyone.

    I have it bareshaft tuned pretty good. I’m hitting the bareshafts just a tad to the right(like an inch). My bareshafts aren’t going into the target straight though. They are always with the point to the left nock to the right. Up and down is good. Any ideas? I have done the foot powder. No issues there

    August 14, 2013 at 2:07 pm #589562 Back to Top REPORT

    nicklewhat?

    Joined: 8/11/2013
    Location: ok
    I would try increasing the tip weight. Milf you are using 100 grain, try 125, etc.
    August 17, 2013 at 1:55 am #590257 Back to Top REPORT

    Austinlindsey76

    Age: 38
    Joined: 7/30/2013
    Location: NV

    I would try increasing the tip weight. Milf you are using 100 grain, try 125, etc.

    I can’t. I’m shooting injextion arrows with the deep six. 100 grains only. I tweeked around with my grip this morning. Wow what a difference. Think I might try a focus grip

Viewing 10 posts - 16 through 25 (of 25 total)