Joined: 11/29/2012I just got into archery last year and fell in love with my Mathews ultralight. I have since upgraded to a reezen 7.0 with ripcord drop away string stop etc ( I even got my wife into a mission). well long story short I want to understand more about the bow and how/why it works so I can eventually tune it myself etc. I have read good articles on here but due to the fact Im in afghanistan dont have much comp time. Are there any books dvds that are noteworth to improve my skillset? Thanks for any help.
IMHO – For a Mathews bow this is the best thread to go through for tuning them and will be more comprehensive than any book that I have read.
http://forums.mathewsinc.com/archery-4/ … ed-178335/
BTW thank you for your service and allowing me to live my life as I choose here in the states. You are among good company on the forum. Express yourself now - Fortune cookie
Joined: 3/18/2008i can’t help with your question.. but i want to thank you very much for your service. stay safe.
First, if there was a good book or DVD, I’d recommend it. However, most of them are 20 years behind the times.
Secondly, most of the ‘tuning tips’ require use of a bow press.
I’d recommend three things:
1. Understand the bow specs and geometry. This is what has been engineered into the bow. It only takes a 6′ tape measure to check the specs and since Mathews has introduced the cam timing hole, it only takes a good eyeball to get the timing correct. Without a bowpress, you rely on your dealer, but you have the knowledge to double-check his work before paying him.
2. Understand the Centroid of Torques. This might sound really complex, but is nothing more than understanding that the bow designer engineered the center of pull, which is where the berger hole is drilled. Knowing this, you would take extra effort to support the arrow on the launcher at the center of the berger hole, and make sure the limbs are backed out evenly.
3. Learn how to tune a bow and how to tune an arrow. Here is where the rubber meets the road.
a. Set Idler Lean. This is the most overlooked issue in bow tuning, yet it drives everything else. The yokes must be adjusted such that when at full draw the idler is up/down and the string is tracking true off the idler. Making this adjustment requires a bowpress, and if you have the dealer ‘tune’ your bow, this is the first check that should be made. Whether or not the bow shoots a bullet hole in paper isn’t important if the idler lean is out, since the bow setting are just masking the idler lean and the bow will be unforgiving.
b. Learn how to determine nock height and centershot. There are a lot of ways to go about this, but for the most simple approach I recommend first determining nock height at 12 yds shooting at a horizontal line and adjust the nock height until all arrows hit in a horizontal line. Move the centershot until all arrows hit on a vertical line. This is called Short Distance Tuning.
http://www.eastonarchery.com/img/downlo … _guide.pdf
Next, do a modified French tune. Make a pencil eraser-sized dot on a piece of cardboard, then draw extended vertical and horizontal lines through the dot. Stand precisely 9′ from the target with the sight set for 52 yds and adjust the sight so it exactly hits the dot. Next, move back to 52 yds and shoot for the dot. If the arrows pattern left or right of the vertical line, move the centershot to bring the arrows onto the vertical line. Redo the test adjusting the sight to be on at 9′, then move back to 52 yds. When the arrows are all on or near the vertical line, observe the pattern. If it is a tight group, you are tuned, if the arrows are in a vertical spread, the nock height is off … lower the nock point or raise the rest until the arrow are a tight group. If the arrows are in a vertical spread centered on the line, raise the nock height or lower the rest until you have a tight group. Now you are Tuned.
The above is how I tune a bow when I’m out of time and it works well for broadheads also.
Once the bow is tuned, for the utmost accuracy, you need to tune the arrow to the bow. This basically is determining the optimal balance between point weight, draw weight, and arrow spine. Without getting into details, John Dudley’s article is worth a read.
http://www.dudleyarchery.info/index.php … &Itemid=56
With that all said, I need to mention the old adage: You can’t Tune any better than you can shoot; You can’t shoot any better than you can tune.
What this means is you really need to develop a consistent shooting form. I recommend first starting with the conventional Classic ‘T’, upright posture, proper bow hand placement, and how to effectively operate a release aide. Once you’ve mastered this, then should you chose to deviate and become unconventional, that would be your ‘Style’. Don’t confuse a Pro’s style with something you can emulate until you’ve mastered the basics.
http://www.bowtube.com/media/32/The_Sta … arry_Wise/
http://arrowtrademagazine.com/articles/ … Basics.pdf
http://www.dudleyarchery.info/index.php … &Itemid=56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRoJdmT8 … ature=plcp
… hope this helps.
Joined: 11/29/2012Thanks for the help. Im a pretty good shot but consistency is an issue(even with my rifle) my patience isnt where it should be. I look forward to learning more as I go and so far im “good enough” out to 50ydsand thats 4 out of 5 arrows in the center 2 rings but I always pull one. Any other insight is always welcome.
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