OK, I get the principle of how it reduces torque at full draw. However, when I had my Drenalin, I didn’t have near the problem you describe and it had a reasonable backwall to the cam … and it shot very good groups. Perhaps the difference in individual bows, or wear and tear on the bearings, etc.
Being a curious type, I ran an experiment with the 1992 Browning.¬†The bow is tuned and Creep Tuned to time the cams.¬†With the cable rod straight, using orange fletched ACC 3-18, I shot a four-shot group at 20 yds, then without changing anything except the cable rod by bending it so the cables came into the shaft at full draw (micro tuned in a 5″ Pipe Vise using a 24-oz framing hammer), I shot another 20 yd group using blue fletched ACC 3-18.
Other than the POI shifting, I can’t really say there was any improvement over the group size. At least, it would take a lot of shooting and score keeping to see if over time there is more precision with less torque, less lateral nock travel. I didn’t feel any difference in the draw or notice any difference in the backwall/timing … this is a individually synched 2-cam bow, so if there were any change in cam timing it would be easily noticed.
Now that I’ve bent the cable rod, I’ll be shooting it that way from now on … It doesn’t seem like it will help or hurt my scores, so nothing ventured, nothing gained.¬†I admire a person that takes action, Im the same way I dont let anybody bull **** me into believe something that is not. So I research all the pros and cons. My sons Drenalin has perfect cam timing zero tilt, and Im also a fan of creep tuning, bare shaft tuning, walk back tuning, and best of all group tuning.
If I were to put the roller guards back on, my group would be to the left forcing me to move my pins to the left, I took a bunch of pictures of the bow at full draw and the riser or the limbs always twisted my arrow was never in line with my front stabilizer…it bug the heck out of me. So when I made the tilt tamer every thing started to change the bow felt more neutral at full draw it is soo smooth, the back wall felt more solid so I went and did all my three bows. I have friends of mine that have a bowtech with the flex guard and their pins do not align completly. I do like PSE sliding cable guard because is adjustable. So.when I finished all of them I wanted to share my experience with all of you Mathews family.
jgarcher I notice your cables look like they are touching each other. just a simple twist to the guard and youshould be ok. if yougo back to the tiltamer site check out the pdf archives files you will find awesome info.
Steel cables clipped together at each cam harness. Always were close, but with the bent cable rod they will touch … what is, is. Cable rod is not adjustable, has hole in it for direct bolt through to riser, again … what is, is. Never did like the cable routing on this bow, but it shoots OK. First set of cables lasted 10 years, going on 10 years for second set … once they give out, the bow becomes a museum-piece, no more parts. You’d think you could get more than 20 years out of a bow.
At least I don’t have to worry about voiding the warranty …I think your bow is an amazing rig, I like how they placed the rod close to the arrow rest. 20 years of use? not bad, my bows are not going anywhere they are a precise well made bows. I will be the dude with a 20 year old, but beating all the young guns with it ha ha ha, As far as warranty Im notworried I have built strong pieces I shoot 400 grain arrows so my limbs are never force to breakage.The new G5 Prime bow has something similar built in.
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