I recently purchased a Matthew Chill R. I have shot a whisker biscuit for years out of my other Matthew bows. The problem has never occurred like this before and I shot the Matthews MR6. The Chill R will not paper tune at all. When it does paper tune the arrow looks crooked. Spoke to my authorized Matthew dealer and he stated paper tuning is not important. Plus you can’t see how the arrows fly anyway. Told him having the rest straight makes the arrow fly bad and looses kinetic energy when hitting the target. It barely penetrates compared when it is paper tuned. How he wants the rest there is no consistency in shooting groups either. He never gave a solution to the problem and stated the bow can’t be paper tuned at all because of the yokes won’t be able to therefore not designed to be touched.
I have spoken to Easton about correct arrow spine and they stated I am shooting the correct arrow.
Is the problem the with the cams not being in tune or something with the string not being twisted enough. I was given a drop away rest to try and that seems to help. Since it was on a trail basis and I wasn’t able to paper tune it to see what happened.
Any help would be appreciated. I am not getting anywhere with what I am doing now.
Joined: 1/5/2014Have you tried walk back tuning, my dealer paper tuned my chill r will out any issue.If it where me i would take it another dealer and have them check it out. sorry i couldnt help more . I am sure there are some people on this site that can help you out oppiesHUnfortunately I see no facts or real details to measure your question by like the arrow model and spine, point weight, draw weight and length and where your center shot is at and how is the nock height compared to the berger or rest bolt hole?I have tried the walk back tuning and shows the same issues at close range. With walk back tuning it show how much of a issue that I have. With the details I am shooting an Axis 340 arrow at a 30″ draw. I did try a Easton Bloodline arrow as well which is lighter with the same results. I use 100 grain field points. The rest is out at the edge of the handle. I normal do not have an issue with up and down as much and can have the adjusted with the loop and rest.
I have tried the walk back tuning and shows the same issues at close range. With walk back tuning it show how much of a issue that I have. With the details I am shooting an Axis 340 arrow at a 30″ draw. I did try a Easton Bloodline arrow as well which is lighter with the same results. I use 100 grain field points. The rest is out at the edge of the handle. I normal do not have an issue with up and down as much and can have the adjusted with the loop and rest.
I would like to help you so what may I ask is your draw weight?The shop stated it was set at 66lbs. When I first started having the issue I thought it might be a draw weight issue on the bow. We maxed it out a 70lbs without a difference. Then I made sure we brought the weight down again and recheck that at the pro shop.
Any help would be appreciated. Just trying to get the best results.Here is what I came up with using your numbers trying see what the actual adjusted draw eight is for you. I used the Carbon Express chart that is fairly accurate and easy to use and understand. Take a look at it here.
I got your results at 79# draw weight and then I took that number over to Easton arrow selection site to find your Axis preferred arrow.
I found that you should be using a .260 or .300 shaft. That is not surprising to me and that should help bring your POINT OF IMPACT back to more typical setting for your arrow rest.
Hope this helps you get your setup working for you.What makes the difference between the 300 shaft than the 340 I currently shoot. I know the 300 is a heavier arrow. What else makes the arrow different than that. A different spine?
What makes the difference between the 300 shaft than the 340 I currently shoot. I know the 300 is a heavier arrow. What else makes the arrow different than that. A different spine?
The spine is stiffer in a .300 vs the .340. The .260 is a stiffer spine than the .300. The new designed bows of today impart more speed and energy into the arrow and a result of this is the required stiffness to be able to tune easily for accuracy. That is why using the adjust draw weight chart at Carbon Express is important to use and Gold Tip arrows web site has a paragraph stating roughly the same thing when selection the proper shaft arrow. Hope this was a help.
Side note I’m shooting the Chill R at 69/70# at 28.5″ using a 28.25″ arrow and I’m shooting a .300 spine and it tunes fairly accurate and shoots better than I can. Center shot measures from the riser at 13/16″ or real close to that. I’m using a limb driven rest.Just an update on my issue. This morning I paper tuned my old MR6 with the exact arrows I was using out of the Chill R. The MR6 is a faster bow. My form is great and had it paper tuned quickly. Did speak with a Matthew representative yesterday and their are issues out their with cam lean and the weakness to the limbs. Spoke to the rep who sold me the bow and they are sending the limbs now. One thing the Matthew representative said he didn’t believe is was an arrow issue because that is what they would have suggested using. A heavier arrow might help a little.
I hope this makes this better. Time will only tell and it running out quickly because of hunting season is starting soon.
… Did speak with a Matthew representative yesterday and their are issues out their with cam lean …
Wow, didn’t know you could speak directly to and buy directly from Mathews Reps … the rest of us have to work through authorized dealers.
Judging from what you say the rest centershot is, it does sound like a cam lean issue. Since the limbs are being sent instead of Mathews rebuilding the bow under warranty, you should check cam lean once the bow is in spec and before even attempting to tune it. Limb Replacement isn’t a 100% guaranteed fix.
FWIW, a .300 spine arrow isn’t necessarily heavier than a .340 spine arrow unless it is the same manufacturer and same line of shafts. Generally, you can move up to a stiffer arrow, like a .300 spine, and sacrifice little or no speed, and may even gain speed, by carefully choosing different manufacturers or arrow models.
Example: Axis 340 are 9.5 gr/inch and take a 16 grain HP insert. A Victory VForce 300 is 9.9 gpi and takes a 14 gr insert, for a total weight difference of only 9 grains heavier than an Axis 340 and only 3 fps slower. You don’t even have to change sight settings inside of 50 yds for 3 fps.
Who ever you talked to at Easton that said you are shooting the correct arrow isn’t in agreement with Easton’s Hunting Arrow selection chart. Easton recommends an Axis 300. Yes, if you input a 29″ shaft the chart comes up with a .340 Axis, but while being marginally weak works for target points , you’ll find it difficult if not impossible to get FP and broadheads to have the same POI.
You can make an Axis 340 shoot “Marginally OK” using target/field points but it will still be slightly weak even if cutting it as short as possible (28″) and lowering DW to 66#, but they will be very weak with broadheads, critical to tune, and unforgiving. What you describe about how the arrows stick crooked into the target, has inconsistent flight, and lacks penetration is typical of a weak spined shaft, especially inside of 20 yds.
Location: PennsylvaniaI have a similar issue with my chillr also. When I set the center shot to 13/16″ I get perfect bullet holes and great arrow flight. However, with the arrow nocked it angles to the left. Every other bow I have owned tuned down the middle. I think it is a problem with torque from the roller guard and the yoke system. It is too close to archery season to pursue the issue. I will call my dealer after deer season.
Location: NYPersonally any fletching that contacts the arrow rest for instance like the whisker biscuit rather than a drop away IS a problem with tuning/center shot issues…..
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