I recently purchased a mathews monster from someone on archerytalk. After setting it up with rest sight etc. I was having an extremely hard time paper tuning, no matter what I did I couldnt get the left tear out. I got it as good as I could but couldnt get it completely out. After sighting the bow in it was shooting ok but soon starting shooting inconsistent, every other group or two I would have arrows about 12″ left and it wasnt my form or torque. Bow also developed a loud noise. The sight would rattle at the shot but everything was tight, I removed the sight and bow is still loud at the shot. checked the timing holes and seems cams are in sync. I did notice the top when at full draw the string coming off left from the top cam, looks like its slightly leaning. Ive read people having problems with the monsters limbs shifting and having to shim them, anyone heard of this? please help! Im growing extremely frustrated!What are your specs to your bow and the setup, right handed or left handed, draw length and poundage? Have put a straight edge on the cams to see where they meet down on the string? What arrow are your using? Have you looked at the Easton tuning guide to see what might cause this left tear problem? Look at page 7 for some information on paper tuning.
http://www.eastonarchery.com/img/downloads/software/tuning_guide.pdf Easton Tuning guide.bow 28″ mods, 60-70 # , 28″ draw, pulling 65 lbs, right handed. Havent put straight edge on will do it when i get home tommorow. Arrow – Victory Vforce 300 spine 50 grain inserts 125 grain field point 3 4″ feathers. Thanks for the info
I recently purchased a mathews monster from someone on archerytalk. After setting it up with rest sight etc. I was having an extremely hard time paper tuning, no matter what I did I couldnt get the left tear out. I got it as good as I could but couldnt get it completely out. After sighting the bow in it was shooting ok but soon starting shooting inconsistent, every other group or two I would have arrows about 12″ left and it wasnt my form or torque. Bow also developed a loud noise. The sight would rattle at the shot but everything was tight, I removed the sight and bow is still loud at the shot. checked the timing holes and seems cams are in sync. I did notice the top when at full draw the string coming off left from the top cam, looks like its slightly leaning. Ive read people having problems with the monsters limbs shifting and having to shim them, anyone heard of this? please help! Im growing extremely frustrated!
There are no problems with the Monster limbs and they don’t need to be shimmed.
If you have arrows shooting about 12″ to the left every other group or two then it’s your form and/or torque. The bow is simply a mechanical device that does the same thing every time. The only variable is the shooter.
Joined: 1/30/2008just a thought, make sure the mods are tightened down.
just a thought, make sure the mods are tightened down.
… and verify each one is the same DL.
Not enough information given to Internet troubleshoot the issue, but I’ll cover a few M6 checks and issues that may or may not apply to your case:
- Limb twist. The MR-series has had some out-of-the-box limb issues, but I’m not aware of the Monster-series having issues other than if the limbs were removed and then re-assembled in the wrong locations. Loosen the Dead End Stop (Note: the Monster is very noisy/hand shock without a string stop) so a straight edge (arrow shaft) can be laid on the shelf-side of each cam. If they meet/cross without crossing over the string and at about the nock point, I’ve had no accuracy issues with the cams having a slight lean at brace. If they cross over the string to meet, then take it to a Mathews dealer and have it checked.
– Quick Change Axle. There has been issues with the red head on the QCA coming loose and backing off. This will result in a noticeable gap between the limb and AVS bearing and could cause tuning issues. Verify the QCA holds the limbs tight to the AVS and Cam with little or no noticeable gaps. Fix is to have the dealer order replacement, standard e-clip axles … there is a regular and long, the dealer will know. FWIW, I haven’t had issues with the QCA backing off.
– Centershot. The M-series with a fall away rest likes a centershot very near 13/16″. My Monster has been stripped down and reassembled twice for routine maintenance, and I’ve reconfigured it about four times with different rests (blade, several fall aways) and has always retuned at about 12.5/16″ centershot. Initially set the centershot so that the distance from the front of the riser to the centerline of the shaft is the same as the distance from the rear of the riser to the centerline of the shaft; this should be about 13/16″~12/16″ when measured from the berger hole to the centerline of the shaft.
– Rest. I’ve had issues with cable actuated fall away rests upsetting the AVS cam synch. The actuation cord tension on one cable affects the AVS cam timing and synch during the draw cycle, effectively ‘short cabling’ one of the cables. This also causes a slight shift in the nock vertical travel during the draw and power cycle.
– – a. Set the rest timing so that it comes full up in the last 1/8″ of draw. The last 1/8″ of draw is all you need because if you creep 1/8″ at full draw the bow will try to rip itself out of your hand. Once you have the rest timing coming up at the last faction of an inch of draw, Creep Tune to compensate for the short cabling affect … this will also make the ‘wall’ much more solid. http://unofficialatfaq.tripod.com/creep_tuning.htm
– – b. Use a limb actuated fall away rest like the Trophy Taker Smackdown Pro FC or LimbDriver or a shoot through rest like a Whisker Biscuit, Spot Hogg Infinity Pronghorn, or one of the blade/Lizard-Tongue rests like the Trophy Taker or SH Edge, etc. Creep Tune to get precise cam synch.
– Nock height. Paper tune to get a nock level tear or near a nock level tear at 5′ and 10′ distances. If you can not tune to a bullet hole at 5′ and 10′ by adjusting the centershot ±1/16″, check for fletch contact, and if no fletch contact then the nock height is likely the cause.
– – Start with a 3/16″ nock height. Raise the nock height 1/32″ and retune the centershot. You should see some improvement or bullet holes. If not, raise the nock height another 1/32″ or so and retune the centershot. My current Monster set at 63#/28.5″ tune is 12.5/16″ centershot and 7/32″ nock height using 455-gr, 27.5″ ACC 3-71 (.298″ o.d.) with 125-gr FP/Fixed-Blade, 12.3% FOC, 283 fps. With the Victory VAP V1 300 shafts, .239″ o.d., the nock height is 3/16″.
Note: The rest launcher when full up should support the shaft centerline at the berger hole centerline. When making very small nock height adjustments, it is easier to raise/lower the rest than move the D-Loop. If the nock height must be adjusted more than 1/16″, then reset the launcher to support the shaft at the berger hole and move the D-Loop.
– Nock Pinch. Nock pinch occurs when the angle of the string squeezes the nock between the D-Loop knots or nock sets. This can cause tuning issues. To test for nock pinch, remove the point off the arrow and come to full draw; if the arrow lifts off the launch, you have nock pinch. You will avoid nock pinch altogether and get easier tuning results by using two tied in nock sets inside the D-Loop, leaving about a 1/16″ gap between the nock and lower nock set. This will also put the driving force directly behind the shaft centerline and make broadhead tuning easier, plus it prevents the arrow from coming off the string on let down. This is Method #2 in the John Dudley article: http://www.dudleyarchery.info/index.php?option=com_phocadownload&view=category&download=38:knot-a-problem&id=1:article&Itemid=56&start=30
– String Grubs. The Monster should have string grubs about 1.5″ from each cam. If not, you will loose some speed and have excessive vibrations. Putting Cat Whiskers in place of string grubs installs about the same OEM weight to correct/dampen the limb/string dynamic oscillations, plus adds some quieting.
… hope this helps.Thanks everyone for your responses. gjarcher thats a great rundown, I actually just dropped it off at dealer to get checked out yesterday. I forgot to mention the bow has a custom paint job on the riser so I believe it was disassembled before. Thinking the issue may be there. thanks again though gj archer I am going to go through that whole list when I get the bow back
You must be logged in to reply to this topic. Click here to log into your account.