Pic is of Limb Torque/Cam Lean on my new Monster Chill (28″/70#). The arrow is about 3/16″ right of string at the nock. My question is: Is this considered acceptable when trying to get the most accuracy the Chill has to offer? The bottom cam is perfectly straight. An arrow laid to it’s side runs about an 1/8″ off the string the full length.
It paper tuned w/CX 450 .300 spine arrows. Center shot set to 12/16″, brace height in spec., ata in spec. except for 1/32″ difference between shelf and quiver side (quiver side longer). I did switch the cables on the rollers and it reduced the cam lean about 1/8″ but it didn’t last. After about 30-40 arrows the floating yoke self-adjusted and now lean is back to 3/16″ at nock.
Arrows seem to be flying good at 30 and 40 yards. At first there was a noticable wiggle down range but after tweaking the rest up/down between 30 and 40, I think I’ve got it worked out and the arrows are flying straight. Next up is broadhead tuning since I won’t have a lot of time for grouping in the next two weeks. I’ve read that Mathews will replace the limbs if cam lean is “unacceptable”. I’ve always shot solo cams and tuned the yokes, so it bugs me knowing that I can’t make adjustments to see what I get. However, my confidence does build a little more with each shooting session. So what do you guys and gals think? Any advice would be well received and greatly appreciated.
JamesI got the same problem with mine the arrow cross the string at the peep sight and the upper pulley was contacting the cable at rest. I saw my dealer and they will replace the upper limb. 3 to 4 weak for delivery so he give me a bow for my hunting season. Now I am in the wood with a hoyt carbon matrix :(. Sorry for my poor english I am from Québec…
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk – now FreeThanks for the reply jeanraph123. That’s the fence I’m on but it sounds like the lean on your’s was just a little worse. My arrow crosses just below the peep and I’ve got about 5/32″ clearance (after swapping rollers) between the left yoke and the cam. When I press the bow, the cam kicks back left and makes contact with the left yoke of the cable, so I know exactly what you are talking about. I’m glad to hear Mathews is taking care of you.
I got a break in the weather yesterday evening and this morning giving me a chance to do some broadhead tuning. There was a slight breeze yesterday evening but I took to giving it a go anyway. Shooting 125 gr G5 Strikers and Exodus of the same weight, the Exodus and field points seem to have the same POI @ 30 yds. The G5s were a little unpredictable…sometimes low (3-4 inches), low left, low right…etc; The sun was going down so I decided to pick up this morning when there was no breeze to speak of.
This morning I notice both broadheads were hitting about 4 inches to the left w/field points impacting the bullseye @ 30 yds. I moved the rest towards the broadheads about 1/32″ which put field points and BHs inline w/BHs a little high. After moving the rest up 1/32″ or slightly less, I was hitting BHs and FPs w/in 2″ of each other @ 30. I adjusted my sight and moved back to 40 with FPs. Apparently, it wasn’t enough sight adjustment b/c everything from 40 was hitting 4″ left. After a couple of adjustments to the sight, FPs were in the bull @ 40 using my 40 yd pin. I went back to 30 to check my 30 yd pin again. Now…FP was in the bullseyey, G5 was in the bullseye less than half an inch from the field point hole and the Exodus went in the same hole as the G5. That said, it seems to have BH tuned to 30 yds. w/o too much trouble. Arrows seem to fly good w/o any wabble as long as I do my part. I didn’t try BHs from 40 b/c a breeze was starting to pick up. I’ve got a small target so I didn’t want to chance sending one into the bayou behind my house I hope to get some time in the morning to revisit.
The Chill seemed to be a little louder this morning than it did yesterday evening…probably b/c it was dead quiet outside. When I say louder, I mean to the point it will cost me in a hunting situation. It was odd b/c I actually added a few more string whiskers after my session yesterday. I also have a Z7 which is extremely quiet w/only a small amount of string whiskers on it. Of course the Z has multiple string stops and is generally quieter b/c it’s a heavier bow. On the other hand, w/quiver mounted and stabilizer mounted both bows weigh the same so I would expect sound dampening to be pretty close. Both bows are using a Tight Spot quiver and B-Stinger stabilizer. I know dual cams are expected to be louder than single cams but I’m thinking the cam lean might have something to do w/the sound level as well.
No matter what I find out when I shoot BHs from 40 yds., I think I’m going to go back to my bow shop and talk to them about possibly getting the top limbs replaced. I am concerned about getting limbs that may not perform as well. I also hate to give up the bow this close to bow season. Fortunately I have a backup.
Has anyone had an experience where Mathews replaced the limbs but they still had some torque in them? If so, how much cam lean did you have?
JamesSpent a little more than 3 hours with this bow today. Getting it to broadhead tune @ 40 yards was a challenge. At the end of the day, I could put a BH and a FP within 2 inches of each other @ 40 yds. (still be good @ 30) as long as I did not make the tiniest of mistakes and it was dead calm. Grouping was non-existent and arrow flight was stable sometimes, sometimes not. I think the bow can do better with the right limbs.New limbs coming from Mathews.The new limbs didn’t work out. It didn’t correct the top cam lean and the shop replaced the bottom limbs (which it didn’t need b/c the cam was straight) and caused the bottom to lean as much as the top. The shop gave me a refund for the bow w/o any trouble. I hated to give it back but if it can’t shoot accurately beyond 25-30 yards, it’s not for me. I’ll be looking at the Chill R when it starts to ship but if I can’t get one w/o cam lean, I think a Helim will be on order. I wish Mathews would drop the floating yoke and go with something that’s adjustable.
Joined: 8/18/2011Cam lean needs to be checked at full draw sometimes when broadhead tuning you need to rotate the nock one fletching at a time to make sure its not the arrow the biggest problem I see with the chill and monsters is the yoke is too tight in the ring not letting the yoke float like it needs too I started building yokes without the seeving in that area and I’m able to run 24 strands instead of 20 strands and the yokes float good and they tune and shoot so much better and they look better than the stock onesThe bow had cam lean at full draw. At one point I flipped the cables on the rollers, moving the top cable to the inside, to take out some of the lateral pull. It helped until the yoke self-adjusted after quite a bit of shooting…evidence of the tight yoke in the ring you’re talking about. The bottom line, the cam just would not line up straight and it should. What kills me is the bottom cam was fine but the shop told me Mathews sent limbs for the bottom and the top, so the shop replaced both which did not fix the top and caused the bottom to lean also. After more than a month, I had no choice but to give up. Keep in mind, I had to wait more than three weeks to receive the bow on order so I had a total of two months time invested in this purchase.For me i have the same problem as you. They change the top and bottom limb and they change the roller guard and that completly resolve the problem. My dealer said there is a recall on the roller guard with the new one i can put my cock vane at 12 o’clock without having fletching issue. I hope the problem will not come back
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk@jeanraph123, glad to hear yours worked out. I was not getting any fletching contact but it was close. When a switched the cables on the rollers, I felt a lot better about the clearance but unfortunately, it combined with the limb change, didn’t resolve my problem.
If your bow is shooting good out to at least 40yds., you should be set.
Joined: 9/2/2011Do we know if this issue was addressed with the Chill’R?I personally have no idea. The first I’ve heard of Mathew’s acknowledging a manufacturing problem is from jeanraph123 above. Neither Mathews or my dealer said anythig about such a recall in my dealings with them. I did notice that my roller arm had a good bend in it towards the string but I thought it was by design. Although, I don’t know how I wasn’t getting fletching contact w/the cable roller configuration from the factory but it passed the lipstick test so I didn’t focus on it too much when talking to my dealer. My Z7 has the top cable tracking to the insided roller but the chill was set up to track the top cable to the outside roller…I’m still wondering why given the shorter distance from axle to roller is on the top.
I’m going to check out the Chill R when it starts shipping but if any of the things noted in this thread are apparent on even the first Chill R I pick up, I’m going to look at the Helim instead. The only reason I’m even giving the Chill R a chance is I like the IBO speed and I liked the draw cycle of this years Chill. I actually prefer slim limb design of the Helim and the Z7 in a hunting bow b/c it’ less bulky. I bump my bow around in a stand enough already. The wider split limbs just means more to snag on something.
Location: LouisianaMine looks like this
But my groups at 20 yards look like
All the chills at the pro shop had the same lean. But with this lean it shoots bullet holes through paper and has amazing accuracy. I think ill just keep mine the way it is.
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