Left paper tear on Switchback

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This topic contains 16 replies, has 5 contributors, and was last updated by jewalker7842 jewalker7842 7 months ago.

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  • February 14, 2014 at 9:26 am #619476 Back to Top REPORT
    jewalker7842
    jewalker7842

    Age: 27
    Joined: 9/16/2013
    Location: Tennessee
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    I changed my strings out last night. I got the bow into spec 33 ATA, cam is slighty overrotated to account for string stretch once it settles, 9 twists on the left yoke, and 12 on the right. My arrow is an 1/8th of an inch from the nocking point from the bow tuning guide I read here on the forums. My centershot is set at 13/16. So here is my conundrum. I am using an NAP Apache rest and I am getting a left tear that I can’t seem to tune out. I have moved the rest to the right as far as it goes and it will not go away.

    I was reading on here to put a couple of twists into my right yoke cable to tune it out. I put the center shot back to 13/16 and then put two twists into right yoke and didn’t seem to help any. I then decided to put my whisker biscuit on…perfect bullet hole. I had this problem before I changed out the strings as I just thought it was the old string and just needed changed out, but the problem seems to have followed. What gives? My arrows are not hitting my rest, the rest is coming all the way up, and my broadheads are hitting with my field points and getting good groups out to 50 yards. Any ideas?

    Mathews Switchback 70lbs 28", Easton FMJ 340's, NAP Apache Drop Away, Trophy Ridge Punisher 5, Xfactor F8 Stabilizer
    February 14, 2014 at 1:16 pm #619488 Back to Top REPORT
    bow-drawn
    Bow Drawn

    Age: 63
    Joined: 11/14/2007
    Location: Ohio
    View My Bows
    Yoke tuning is needed if you see the idler wheel leaning at full draw or when you place a straight edge against the idler wheel and see how it lines up with nock set on your string. Then some twisting of the yokes to get the lean out of it should be done.

    The whisker biscuit holds the shaft longer during the shot so any torquing of the bow may be corrected some by it compared to the Apache quick fall away from when the release is made during the shot.

    The switchback maybe a 11/16″ center shot and the some of the bows after that are more the 13/16″ or slightly more.
    Hope this helps some.

    February 15, 2014 at 7:03 am #619535 Back to Top REPORT
    statedriller
    statedriller

    Joined: 9/15/2006
    Location: Call me...867-5309

    I changed my strings out last night. I got the bow into spec 33 ATA, cam is slighty overrotated to account for string stretch once it settles, 9 twists on the left yoke, and 12 on the right. My arrow is an 1/8th of an inch from the nocking pointfrom the bow tuning guide I read here on the forums. My centershot is set at 13/16.So here is my conundrum. I am using an NAP Apache rest and I am getting a left tear that I can’t seem to tune out. I have moved the rest to the right as faras it goes and it will not go away. 

    I was reading on here to put a couple of twists into my right yoke cable to tune it out. I put the center shot back to 13/16 and then put two twists into right yoke and didn’t seem to help any. I then decided toput my whisker biscuit on…perfect bullet hole. I had this problem before I changed out the strings as I just thought it was the old string and just needed changed out, but the problem seems to have followed. What gives? My arrows are not hitting my rest, the rest is coming all the way up,and my broadheads are hitting with my field points and getting good groups out to 50 yards. Any ideas?

    Why mess with something that’s not broke?  The goal of good tuning is to have what you have right there…

    The end is near....
    February 15, 2014 at 6:11 pm #619580 Back to Top REPORT

    conquestador

    Age: 63
    Joined: 12/10/2009
    Location: Upstate NY
    Not that I’ll have the fix, but how bad of a tear are we talking?
    February 15, 2014 at 7:40 pm #619586 Back to Top REPORT
    jewalker7842
    jewalker7842

    Age: 27
    Joined: 9/16/2013
    Location: Tennessee
    Photo Gallery

    Not that I’ll have the fix, but how bad of a tear are we talking?

    I twisted my right yoke about 2 1/2 turns and now the string comes straight off the idler wheel at full draw and the tear is gone and I’m shooting bullet holes.

    Only problem now is my broadheads keep hitting right now matter how I adjust the rest. Do I need to take two twists out of the left yoke since I added two on the right? Would that fix the broadheads?

    I’m kinda lost at this point.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

    Mathews Switchback 70lbs 28", Easton FMJ 340's, NAP Apache Drop Away, Trophy Ridge Punisher 5, Xfactor F8 Stabilizer
    February 15, 2014 at 9:48 pm #619603 Back to Top REPORT

    conquestador

    Age: 63
    Joined: 12/10/2009
    Location: Upstate NY

    I twisted my right yoke about 2 1/2 turns and now the string comes straight off the idler wheel at full draw and the tear is gone and I’m shooting bullet holes.

    Only problem now is my broadheads keep hitting right now matter how I adjust the rest. Do I need to take two twists out of the left yoke since I added two on the right? Would that fix the broadheads?

    I don’t have your answer, but I’m just thinking this through.  I’d say that taking two twists out of the left yoke will give you a lean in the opposite direction.  What if you took one twist out of the left yoke and added one to the right?

    February 15, 2014 at 10:07 pm #619604 Back to Top REPORT
    jewalker7842
    jewalker7842

    Age: 27
    Joined: 9/16/2013
    Location: Tennessee
    Photo Gallery

    I twisted my right yoke about 2 1/2 turns and now the string comes straight off the idler wheel at full draw and the tear is gone and I’m shooting bullet holes.

    Only problem now is my broadheads keep hitting right now matter how I adjust the rest. Do I need to take two twists out of the left yoke since I added two on the right? Would that fix the broadheads?

    I don’t have your answer, but I’m just thinking this through.  I’d say that taking two twists out of the left yoke will give you a lean in the opposite direction.  What if you took one twist out of the left yoke and added one to the right?

    I did some research and if broadheads are hitting right. I need to put a twist on the left yoke, but take a twist out of the right yoke. I believe that is correct. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

    Mathews Switchback 70lbs 28", Easton FMJ 340's, NAP Apache Drop Away, Trophy Ridge Punisher 5, Xfactor F8 Stabilizer
    February 16, 2014 at 9:15 am #619617 Back to Top REPORT

    conquestador

    Age: 63
    Joined: 12/10/2009
    Location: Upstate NY

    I don’t have your answer, but I’m just thinking this through. I’d say that taking two twists out of the left yoke will give you a lean in the opposite direction. What if you took one twist out of the left yoke and added one to the right?

    I did some research and if broadheads are hitting right. I need to put a twist on the left yoke, but take a twist out of the right yoke. I believe that is correct. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

    I wish I could do better for you, but I’m just getting my feet wet on the technical aspects of tuning.  I don’t want to sound like I have the  solution, but I do learn from all of these scenarios.  I won’t tell you something that I’m not 100% sure of.   What you’re saying makes sense.  And then to complicate things, I shoot left-handed.  You would think that all of the twists this way and that would be just the opposite of a righty, but that is not always the case.

    Maybe someone that knows what they’re talking about can jump in. Keep us posted.  Thanks.

    February 16, 2014 at 11:34 am #619627 Back to Top REPORT
    bow-drawn
    Bow Drawn

    Age: 63
    Joined: 11/14/2007
    Location: Ohio
    View My Bows
    Mathews Switchback 70lbs 28″, Easton FMJ 340’s, NAP Apache Drop Away, Trophy Ridge Punisher 5″

    Is this what your setup is?

    Usually if I read the broadheads where hitting consistently to the right for a right hand archer I’d say your arrows are a weak spine setup. The FMJ 340 cut at 28″ should about right for the switchback. How much weight are the broad heads?

    February 16, 2014 at 1:37 pm #619638 Back to Top REPORT
    jewalker7842
    jewalker7842

    Age: 27
    Joined: 9/16/2013
    Location: Tennessee
    Photo Gallery

    “Mathews Switchback 70lbs 28″, Easton FMJ 340’s, NAP Apache Drop Away, Trophy Ridge Punisher 5″

    Is this what your setup is?

    Usually if I read the broadheads where hitting consistently to the right for a right hand archer I’d say your arrows are a weak spine setup. The FMJ 340 cut at 28″ should about right for the switchback. How much weight are the broad heads?

    I am shooting 100g Montec G5s. I’m thinking about adding one more twist on the right yoke and take a twist out of the left. You think that might help any?

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

    Mathews Switchback 70lbs 28", Easton FMJ 340's, NAP Apache Drop Away, Trophy Ridge Punisher 5, Xfactor F8 Stabilizer
    February 16, 2014 at 1:59 pm #619641 Back to Top REPORT
    bow-drawn
    Bow Drawn

    Age: 63
    Joined: 11/14/2007
    Location: Ohio
    View My Bows

    “Mathews Switchback 70lbs 28″, Easton FMJ 340′s, NAP Apache Drop Away, Trophy Ridge Punisher 5″

    Is this what your setup is?

    Usually if I read the broadheads where hitting consistently to the right for a right hand archer I’d say your arrows are a weak spine setup. The FMJ 340cut at 28″ should about right for the switchback. How much weight are the broad heads?

    I am shooting 100g Montec G5s. I’m thinking about adding one more twist on the right yoke and take a twist out of the left. You think that might help any?

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

    Those should not be a problem. Have you tried putting a straight edge against the outside of the idler wheel to see how it lines up at the nock point? If it lines up tight to it and looks straight back at full draw then leave that alone.
    Try lowering your pounds if you are at 70+ pounds now and see if that changes your point of impact and brings the FP and BH together. If it does then then it indicates those arrows are too weak in spine.
    Have tried moving your rest to the left? Just a 1/32″ at a time and see if that brings the BH back to center.

    February 16, 2014 at 5:52 pm #619673 Back to Top REPORT
    jewalker7842
    jewalker7842

    Age: 27
    Joined: 9/16/2013
    Location: Tennessee
    Photo Gallery

    Bow Drawn wrote:
    “Mathews Switchback 70lbs 28″, Easton FMJ 340′s, NAP Apache Drop Away, Trophy Ridge Punisher 5″

    Is this what your setup is?

    Usually if I read the broadheads where hitting consistently to the right for a right hand archer I’d say your arrows are a weak spine setup. The FMJ 340cut at 28″ should about right for the switchback. How much weight are the broad heads?

    I am shooting 100g Montec G5s. I’m thinking about adding one more twist on the right yoke and take a twist out of the left. You think that might help any?

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

    Those should not be a problem. Have you tried putting a straight edge against the outside of the idler wheel to see how it lines up at the nock point? If it lines up tight to it and looks straight back at full draw then leave that alone.
    Try lowering your pounds if you are at 70+ pounds now and see if that changes your point of impact and brings the FP and BH together. If it does then then it indicates those arrows are too weak in spine.
    Have tried moving your rest to the left? Just a 1/32″ at a time and see if that brings the BH back to center.[/quote]

    When putting an arrow against the idler wheel at rest the strings splits the center of the arrow at the nocking point. It isn’t the 1/8 at the nocking point like Vince’s tuning guide says. But at full draw the string comes straight off the idler wheel. I have tried moving the rest but the broadheads still are always shooting right. Hence my question as maybe I should put another twist in the right yoke and take a twist out of the left.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

    Mathews Switchback 70lbs 28", Easton FMJ 340's, NAP Apache Drop Away, Trophy Ridge Punisher 5, Xfactor F8 Stabilizer
    February 17, 2014 at 9:55 am #619765 Back to Top REPORT
    bow-drawn
    Bow Drawn

    Age: 63
    Joined: 11/14/2007
    Location: Ohio
    View My Bows

    Bow Drawn wrote:
    “Mathews Switchback 70lbs 28″, Easton FMJ 340′s, NAP Apache Drop Away, Trophy Ridge Punisher 5″

    Is this what your setup is?

    Usually if I read the broadheads where hitting consistently to the right for a right hand archer I’d say your arrows are a weak spine setup. The FMJ 340cut at 28″ should about right for the switchback. How much weight are the broad heads?

    I am shooting 100g Montec G5s. I’m thinking about adding one more twist on the right yoke and take a twist out of the left. You think that might help any?

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

    Those should not be a problem. Have you tried putting a straight edge against the outside of the idler wheel to see how it lines up at the nock point? If it lines up tight to it and looks straight back at full draw then leave that alone.
    Try lowering your pounds if you are at 70+ pounds now and see if that changes your point of impact and brings the FP and BH together. If it does then then it indicates those arrows are too weak in spine.
    Have tried moving your rest to the left? Just a 1/32″ at a time and see if that brings the BH back to center.

    When putting an arrow against the idler wheel at rest the strings splits the center of the arrow at the nocking point. It isn’t the 1/8 at the nocking point like Vince’s tuning guide says. But at full draw the string comes straight off the idler wheel. I have tried moving the rest but the broadheads still are always shooting right. Hence my question as maybe I should put another twist in the right yoke and take a twist out of the left.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

    [/quote]
    Actually I would not put any more time in the yoke tuning. If your field points hit center and your broad heads hit right of them then I still think it’s an arrow problem that needs addressed. If you move the rest and nothing much changes it more than likely a arrow tuning issue. I assume you are shooting at the full 70# or more and if you try backing out the limb bolts and get your poundage down below 65#. Then see if your POI changes. If it does then it’s in the arrows. I have the switchback and I found at less than 65# I could shoot .400 spine arrows with broad heads. Above 65# I have to go to the 330 spine arrows with broad heads and I like using a 100 gr. head.

    February 17, 2014 at 10:03 am #619766 Back to Top REPORT
    jewalker7842
    jewalker7842

    Age: 27
    Joined: 9/16/2013
    Location: Tennessee
    Photo Gallery

    Bow Drawn wrote:
    “Mathews Switchback 70lbs 28″, Easton FMJ 340′s, NAP Apache Drop Away, Trophy Ridge Punisher 5″

    Is this what your setup is?

    Usually if I read the broadheads where hitting consistently to the right for a right hand archer I’d say your arrows are a weak spine setup. The FMJ 340cut at 28″ should about right for the switchback. How much weight are the broad heads?

    I am shooting 100g Montec G5s. I’m thinking about adding one more twist on the right yoke and take a twist out of the left. You think that might help any?

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

    Those should not be a problem. Have you tried putting a straight edge against the outside of the idler wheel to see how it lines up at the nock point? If it lines up tight to it and looks straight back at full draw then leave that alone.
    Try lowering your pounds if you are at 70+ pounds now and see if that changes your point of impact and brings the FP and BH together. If it does then then it indicates those arrows are too weak in spine.
    Have tried moving your rest to the left? Just a 1/32″ at a time and see if that brings the BH back to center.

    When putting an arrow against the idler wheel at rest the strings splits the center of the arrow at the nocking point. It isn’t the 1/8 at the nocking point like Vince’s tuning guide says. But at full draw the string comes straight off the idler wheel. I have tried moving the rest but the broadheads still are always shooting right. Hence my question as maybe I should put another twist in the right yoke and take a twist out of the left.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

    Actually I would not put any more time in the yoke tuning. If your field points hit center and your broad heads hit right of them then I still think it’s an arrow problem that needs addressed. If you move the rest and nothing much changes it more than likely a arrow tuning issue. I assume you are shooting at the full 70# or more and if you try backing out the limb bolts and get your poundage down below 65#. Then see if your POI changes. If it does then it’s in the arrows. I have the switchback and I found at less than 65# I could shoot .400 spine arrows with broad heads. Above 65# I have to go to the 330 spine arrows with broad heads and I like using a 100 gr. head.

    [/quote]

    I’ve also tried my 300 spine GT Velocity XTs and it is the same way. So I know it’s something on my bow. I added a twist to the right yoke and took out one of the left last night and the string is still coming straight off the idler wheel at full draw, and the arrow if put against the idler wheel at rest is now an 1/8th of an inch from the nocking point. So it would SEEM that everything is where it should be now.

    I have not shot it yet, but I will tonight. Hopefully, them broadheads will hit with my FPs now. I’ll keep everyone updated.

    Mathews Switchback 70lbs 28", Easton FMJ 340's, NAP Apache Drop Away, Trophy Ridge Punisher 5, Xfactor F8 Stabilizer
    February 17, 2014 at 8:20 pm #619823 Back to Top REPORT
    jewalker7842
    jewalker7842

    Age: 27
    Joined: 9/16/2013
    Location: Tennessee
    Photo Gallery
    After a lot of trial and error I took all the twist out of the yokes and then put 12 in the right and 9 on left. I had to add 2 more to the right to get the arrow at rest to run parallel with the string and be at an 1/8 of an inch from the nocking point. At full draw everything was straight. I still was getting a left tear moved the rest, still nothing. I gave up. I put the whisker biscuit on and after 3 shots I had a perfect bullet hole and my broadheads are hitting with my FPs. I guess the NAP Apache does not like my bow apparently. Still not sure what the heck is wring with it.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

    Mathews Switchback 70lbs 28", Easton FMJ 340's, NAP Apache Drop Away, Trophy Ridge Punisher 5, Xfactor F8 Stabilizer
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