I’ve been into archery for 58 yearsand have seen the problem you describe many times, it is not as uncommon as you may think. I’ve explained what the most likely causes are and how they should be addressed. The idler wheel lean would have to be reset, the rest timing reset, the nock height and centershot reset, etc. so you are really starting from scratch unless you’ve recorded these settings when the bow was shooting good. I’ve explained that your arrow selection is poor and why (the Chartis clearlylabeled as a Gold Tip Chart), and if you enter the GT Chart using GT’ guidance (go one box to the right), even for a 28″ shaft 70# bowthe recommend spine is still #5 .300″. Finally, I’ve explained what needs to be done to get the .400 spine shafts to work, if they will work at all with FP and BH having same POI.
As for some unnamed Mathews Tech or Regional Sales Rep saying you can’t get .400 spine shafts with FP and BH to have the same POI, I really don’t care … I can get them to shot to the same spot (see my post “Setting Up for Broadheads“), but tuning is very critical and the arrows are very unforgiving of any form inconsistencies.If you could do it before, thenyou shouldn’t have any problems now, and you shouldn’t be vexed by what someone else says.
Easton’s guidance on arrow spine hasn’t been updated in decades, and the spine causing right or left POI is forArcher’s Paradox Fingershooters, and not applicable to release aid shooters. Here is a demo I did to show that even severely underspined arrows can be tuned to a bullet hole, although a bullet hole doesn’t guarantee FPs and BH will have the same POI (not all bullet holes are equal, see my post “Setting Up for Broadheads“):
The Arrow Mfgr Industry has defined a Hard or Single Cam in the range of 290 fps to 315 fps. Eastonhas not updated their charts for X-Hard Cam, like the HeliM. Carbon Express, Gold Tip, and several other arrow manufactures have updated their arrow selection for the X-Hard Cams/Speed Bow in the 315 – 350 fps IBO rating.
This is GT’s Guidance: http://www.goldtip.com/arrowcontent.aspx?page=recommendation
Carbon Express provides an Adjusted DW Worksheet for entering their arrow selection chart: http://www.carbonexpressarrows.com/sites/default/files/CX_2011_BowDrawWeight.pdf
I would recommend using CX’s Adjusted DW Worksheet and using the results when entering Easton’s Arrow Selection or any other arrow manufacturer’s chart that doesn’t compensate for the faster, more efficient bows. Example: 70# HeliM shooting 28″ or longer arrow with 100 gr screw in point has an adjusted DW of 79#.
When entering Easton’s chart, the recommend shafts can be the .330-340 spine if a 28″ (28.5″)arrow and 78# DW is used, or it can be a .300 spine if a 29″ (28.5″) arrow and 79# DW is used. When on the borderline, it is better and easier to tune when slightly stiff than weak, especially with fixed blade broadheads.
I’ve asked several questions and received either vague or no answers, like idler lean was ‘supposed to be taken out’ isn’t a real answer; what check did you do on your part to verify it was correct? So, I assume you aren’t really interested in solving your problem and more interested in venting, which is OK if that is what youwant… and why I say
Not interested in all venting I don’t have the bow to check some of the things you are asking me to check. I would think that Mathews
having a certified Mathews dealer in complete take down and rebuilding of the bow would no to check cam and idler wheel lean any time setting a bow up.
And as far as 400 spine arrows hitting the same field points and broadheads I was not saying they were talking just about 400 spine in my bow he was saying with any set up period you should not have field points and broadheads hitting in same place and the tec I talked to was first name kary
Don’t know his last name or the name of his boss that made the statement But I did disagree with the statement. So I can not test out what you are telling me without having the bow in hand The dealer that told me to shoot 400 spine arrows is bow mathews dealer here in Knoxville tn
… Not interested in all venting I don’t have the bow to check some of the things you are asking me to check. I would think that Mathews
having a certified Mathews dealer in complete take down and rebuilding of the bow would no to check cam and idler wheel lean any time setting a bow up…
Then why not just give it a rest until you get your bow back?
I do not assume, nor would I suggest to anyone, that factory setup makes all the tuning and spec adjustments. First, they assemble the bows, they don’t shoot and paper tune them, that is the dealer’s job, so I would not expect idler lean adjustment beyond 9 twists in the left yoke and 12 in the right yoke for a RH bow. Second, the strings and cables are new and will stretch just sitting in the UPS truck and the heat during transit, so even if the bow was perfect leaving Sparta, it wouldn’t be when it arrived at the dealer, and it certainly won’t be until it has been shot 50 to 200 times to get the string and cable to settle.
There are some things you just have to do yourself if you want a bow to suit you and your shooting style. Having a dealer paper tune a bow to a bullet hole doesn’t mean it is setup for you to shoot a bullet hole. Having a dealer set the peep height doesn’t mean it will the ‘your’ peep height. You get my drift, eh?
When you get your bow back, and I’d be mildly surprised if there is anything seriously wrong with it, but Mathews seems to change out limbs and cam as a matter of policy, give some of my broadhead tuning tips a try, and if you have problems, PM me. Although, I’m taking off Elk hunting in 5 days and who knows when I’ll be back out of the mountains … in a couple of days, I hope
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