Helim Help

Home Forums Archery Tech Forum Helim Help

This topic contains 3 replies, has 2 contributors, and was last updated by gjarcher gjarcher 10 months ago.

Viewing 4 posts - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • September 23, 2013 at 9:12 pm #596078 Back to Top REPORT
    swatpup89
    SwatPup89

    Joined: 12/30/2008
    View My Bows
    Going to take my bow to the shop in the AM, but for now just gonna see if you guys can give me any advice. I paper tuned my Helim last season with bullet holes. This season the bow has been shooting fine and broad heads flying with FP’s. la la la la la, you guys know. All of a sudden my arrows started flying off low a couple inches. So after trying to pin point the problem I am at a stand still. This evening I went back to paper tune my bow, and I am getting constant Nock Right tears. I have moved my QAD HDX over almost to the point of fletching contact on the riser. Moving it helped the issue but didn’t fix it. Still having Nock Right Tears and as stated previously almost having fletching hit the riser… Thanks for the help Fellas…
    September 24, 2013 at 10:14 am #596118 Back to Top REPORT
    gjarcher
    gjarcher

    Age: 71
    Joined: 10/3/2006
    Location: Colorado
    View My Bows
    First, a nock right tear for a RH Compound shooter normally means the centershot is too close to the riser.

    Right Tear: Mechanical Release Aid (CR) To correct (page 7 Easton Arrow Tuning and Maintenance Guide):

    1. Move the arrow rest to the left. Continue
    moving the rest to the left in small increments
    until the right tear is eliminated.
    2. Make sure the arrow has adequate clearance past the
    cable guard and cables.
    3. Make sure the bow hand is well relaxed to eliminate
    excessive bow hand torque.

    Secondly, when a bow begins to suddenly change the POI, that is an indication of something changing, and perhaps something seriously, dangerously going wrong:
    Best Case:
    - The peep height has slipped downward or the D-Loop has slipped upward.
    - The rest centershot could have slipped or the timing cord stretched. Either one could make the arrow produce a nock high right tear. In the case of the timing cord there would be fletch contact. Check with spray powder, etc.
    - The rest mounting arm could have come loose and the timing cord would pull the back of the rest downward, effectively raising the nock height, making arrow shoot low and throwing bow out of tune.
    - The sight could have been bumped or come loose but that usually makes the arrows shoot high, not low.
    Worst Case:
    - Strands in string are breaking under serving. Usually the peep will rotate slightly as well. Occasionally, lumps or thin spots can be seen in the serving, but if the breakage is at the nock point, there will be no visible damage.
    - Limb Problem. For low arrow POI, the lower limb may be cracking or splintering. Rarely, a limb bolt could be stripping out. Inspect closely, use a dry cotton ball rubbed over limb to detect small slivers, examine axle bolt holes under good light to detect cracking (sometimes cracks at the bolt hole can only be seen when the bow is drawn).

    … hope this helps. {#emotions_dlg.mathews_peace}

    September 24, 2013 at 10:51 am #596125 Back to Top REPORT
    swatpup89
    SwatPup89

    Joined: 12/30/2008
    View My Bows
    Thanks man, ur always. Huge help! I finally got it good on paper at the shop this morning, bow was a little out of spec and put back in, but the bow is only drawing around 68 to 69 lbs maxed which I thoughts odd since 70pounders usually draw a hair over 70… Anyway Ima shoot it at home and see what happens now…
    September 25, 2013 at 9:32 am #596253 Back to Top REPORT
    gjarcher
    gjarcher

    Age: 71
    Joined: 10/3/2006
    Location: Colorado
    View My Bows
    You only lose 2 fps per pound of DW so its not as big a deal as some make of it. However, adding about two twists in the cable should bring it back to rated DW and the amount of change to ATA won’t be that much unless the cable is over twisted (1+ twists/inch) to begin with. The specs are ‘approximate’.

    I like to have the cable and string under about the same tension and the string balanced so the peep doesn’t rotate. If you pluck them both like a guitar string (string stop backed off) and one sounds ‘dull’, then the tension isn’t balanced, the bow doesn’t perform optimally, and is noisier. If the peep rotates, the upper and lower halves of the string aren’t under the same tension.

Viewing 4 posts - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)