I just got a brand new EZGreen Press so I can do my own work on my bow! I pressed my 60lbs Heli m this weekend and swapped a 28″ for a 27.5″ cam. When putting everything back to spec, I got the ATA running about 1/16″ short and the cable slightly low in the sight window as suggested on another post here. Problem is that I am only getting about 58lbs draw weight and the amount of twists I had to put in the cable is starting to actually twist the split yoke cables together. How do I get the 60-62lbs of spec draw weight without twisting the cable further or losing my timing, ATA, DL, etc.?
Should I take a few twists out of the cable and add those twists back, plus a couple more to the yoke split equally? Any help is greatly appreciated.
This thread has some answers for you already posted.
You have to untwist the yokes so they are not twisting on to themselves. They should be twisted in the opposite direction of the cable twists. Be sure to count how many twists you are putting in each side and write them down. It’s very easy to lose track of the number of twists or it is for me.
Hope this helps.thanks for the link…..all the twisting clockwise, twisting counterclockwise, twisting one affects every spec, twisting the other affects every spec……seems a little overwhelming and kinda intimidating, but I will give it a shot. Just don’t want to mess anything up on my bow.
Thanks Again!Just thinking about this…if I remove the twists that were formed in the split yoke from adding cable twists, am I not just effectively removing the twists that I previously added to the cable? Won’t this just lower my DW and change my timing again? Maybe this all just comes down to trial and error to get the nerves out of my system on this. This is what I get for being a perfectionist.Sounds to me like you need to untwist the yokes so they don’t wrap around each other, take about 2-3 twists out of the string and see where you are. Get the Ata correct(within 1/16″)long, then twist cable to get desired poundage and untwist string if it takes too many in cable to get to poundage.black z7 magnum,tommy hogg,qad,b-stingers, vaportrail: blue smoke triumph,sword,hamskae,b-stingers:desert tactical chill R, tommy hogg,limbdriver pro v,ktech
Just thinking about this…if I remove the twists that were formed in the split yoke from adding cable twists, am I not just effectively removing the twists that I previously added to the cable? Won’t this just lower my DW and change my timing again? Maybe this all just comes down to trial and error to get the nerves out of my system on this. This is what I get for being a perfectionist.
The twisting in your yoke can be solved by taking a few twists out of the bottom and adding them to each leg of the yoke. This way you keep everything in time. So….if you take out 2 full twists at the bottom, add 2 full twists to each leg of the yoke at the top. This will keep your cable the same length and also your yoke even on both sides and get rid of the twisting of the yoke legs at the base of the Y.
Sent from Big Buck CountryFor Jesus!Thanks Rev! This was exactly the confirmation of the idea in my head that I was looking for. Hopefully I will get some time later this week to make these tweaks, get everything to spec and I will let you all know how it goes. Thanks again for everyone’s input…the friendliest boards on the net!You can’t put 2 twists on each leg of yoke and keep idler in the position it is now, because they aren’t equally pulling. This is why you need more initial twists on the right side of yoke for proper lean.black z7 magnum,tommy hogg,qad,b-stingers, vaportrail: blue smoke triumph,sword,hamskae,b-stingers:desert tactical chill R, tommy hogg,limbdriver pro v,ktechI have not yet made any changes to the yoke from the factory twists, I have only added twists to the cable on the cam end….so if I just add twists equally to each leg won’t it keep the idler lean the same??? Basically all the initial twists are still in the yoke….I am not starting from scratch without twists in them.
Or are you saying that one twist on the right does not equal one twist on the left?
ThanksHe’s saying mainly the same thing as you are. If you want to add more more poundage you can add the twist evenly to the yoke if it is leaning properly already, 2 twists to the right and 2 to the left. That will maintain the lean in idler you have now if it changes it then put more twists in the right side than in the left. It will add pounds but not make much of a change else where. Try it. It won’t hurt a thing. Just keep track of what twists you have added in case you need to take a twist out later. Then put a straight edge on the idler wheel to see how it sets up against the nock set.What I mean pertaining to yoke twist rate is, it’s basically a 2.5 to 1 ratio between right and left side. Because the right has more twists, it takes fewer twists in the right to move idler angle compared to left side. This is because the right is shorter, being offset by the roller guard to the right of the bow. I hope you understand this.black z7 magnum,tommy hogg,qad,b-stingers, vaportrail: blue smoke triumph,sword,hamskae,b-stingers:desert tactical chill R, tommy hogg,limbdriver pro v,ktechOkay, I finally had some time to do some twisting tonight. Basically I got my ATA to 29 and 15/16ths, the cable is low in the timing window, the idler tilt is good (no yoke twisting on itself), and I am drawing 58-59 lbs on my handheld spring scale. I am thinking my spring scale is slightly off at this point because if I do any other adjustments to gain draw weight I throw off other measurements/timing. I might try getting a hold of a different scale to see if that is the problem. Thanks for all the suggestions and help…if anyone thinks of anything else please let me know.
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