… I also struggle with knowing if my DL is correct. …
DL looks about right.
The sight will normally tell you if your DL is correct or not. If the sight picture is choppy, herky-jerky, and tends to sudden jerk off target, lengthen the DL in 1/4″ increments until it is steady. If the sight picture is a constant, slow wander, never steadying up for long, and often tending to drop below the aim point, shorten the DL in 1/4″ increments until it is steady.
The picture you posted isn’t good for form analysis since you are shooting downhill, and have made the classic mistake of not first drawing level, coming to anchor, then bending at the waist to come on target. While the green line shows your body in an upright position, that is not what you want on a downhill shot because it throws the geometry of your body out of kilter. The green line starting at the waist, extended to the V in the collar bone should be leaning forward and this will make the line from shoulder to shoulder square with spine of the body…same as if you were shooting on the level.
As I see it, your main accuracy problem is the lack of a secondary reference point to position the head. You have the head bent way too far forward, with the nose way past the string. This is most likely because the peep height is improper for you. Draw the bow while standing up straight, with head up, and draw it away from the face, then move the bow into the anchor point without moving the head. Next, lean the head forward so the tip of the nose just touches the string … readjust the peep to fit you. (Note: if the peep is moved up, the gang adjustment on the sight needs to be moved up also).
Since you are shooting downhill, it is hard to tell much about bow hand placement. Unless you first draw level, then bend at the waist, the bow hand pressure point on the grip will be different depending on the steepness of the uphill or downhill shot. This is the most common cause for misses when shooting out of a treestand. Read Larry Wise’s Bow Hand Basics article, link provided in the above posts.
Your stance needs to be opened up more. The toe of the front foot should be back to the green line. This and correcting bow hand grip will probably make the armguard unnecessary.
You should shorten up the TrueFire release so that when at full draw the index finger has the trigger between the first and second knuckle … the index finger should be pointing straight down.
Thanks GJ!! I Just left the bow shop. I went from a 28″ cam to a 27.5″. I hope I didn’t mess up. I didn’t see your post until after I left.
Well, work on the form issues with the MR6 … the draw modules aren’t that expensive and easy to change out. Once you got your DL determined, write it down. Knowing your DL is like knowing your shoe size, etc.
I’m always amazed at what these bow shops do when selling a bow and fitting the archer to the bow, instead of the other way around. There is an old joke about that …
A guy goes to a tailor to have a suit made. He gets measured and comes back the next day. One sleeve is longer than the other, the tailor says just drop one shoulder and they’ll be even. There is a bubble in the back of the coat, the tailor says just bend forward a bit and the bubble is gone. One trouser leg is longer than the other, the tailor says just bend one knee and they’ll be even. The guy walks out of the tailor shop, hunched over and dragging one leg, looking like Quasimodo.
One of two Catholic Nuns from across the street says, “Oh My! Look at that poor crippled man”.
The other Nun says, “Yes, but what a great tailor he has.”
What a great Pro Shop some of us have …This is with 27.5″ cam. Does it look any better?? It feels totally goofy and I can’t anchor my index knuckle under my ear like I’m used to.Hard to analyze when not aiming level … but it appears you are more cramped up than ever … and you still haven’t corrected the stance, some improvement in the draw arm shoulder position, but bow arm and bow hand grip needs improvement, although you’ve made improvement in standing up straight. The bow hand knuckles should form a 30º to 45º angle … doesn’t matter if you are shooting Trad or Compound, the principal is the same.
Ultimately, you want to get the line of your shoulders square to the backbone
I think you should have the idea now how to analyze your photos, and what needs to be done.Thanks again GJ. Should I try to keep my index knuckle in the pocket at the bottom of my ear as my anchor point? I know I need work with my form, but no help anywhere near where I live. So now I have to decide whether to keep it at 27.5 or go back to 28″…??In the photos I don’t see the knuckle of the index finger at the pocket below the ear …
With a wrist strap trigger finger release, I recommend putting the V or Web of the thumb and index finger at the point of the jawbone. This is a positive anchor point and a natural anchor. The index knuckle at the pocket below the ear is not a positive anchor.
If you stand upright, extend both arms level, turn the head to look where you’d be shooting, then fold the release hand to where it naturally comes to the face, it should put the V of the web of the thumb and index finger at the point of the jaw.
This article by John Dudley covers proper anchor.
If you have no help, then you’ll have to establish your own training regimine. Make a check list of things that need work, each practice session just focus on one item until you feel you have it mastered, then move onto the next.
I recommend starting with stance, foot placement, and posture.
Next, move to bow hand position and pressure.
Make some practice sessions dedicated to conscious work on each shot, then occasionally just shoot for fun to relieve some of the boredom. Eventually, you’ll reach a point where everything falls into place and becomes second nature … that’s when you begin work on back tension and proper control of the release aide.This is with MR6. I’m working on grip and can tell a difference. It’s hard to straighten posture and get feet right. I’m going to have tell make myself correct it each timeGJ, you are a wealth of knowledge. Thanks a million for your time and patience. I really appreciate the help. If you’re ever headed east, get in touch with me and come hunt in MS.
… It’s hard to straighten posture and get feet right. I’m going to have tell make myself correct it each time
Yep, I can identify with that. Every couple of months or so I take a pic of myself and analyze it … thinking, “How the $%@#&* did I ever develop that bad habit? Then its back to the practice sessions, concentrating on correcting the form and rebuilding muscle memory.
But despite what the nay-sayers say, the Classic T form is repeatable and consistent, and it pays dividends developing it.
If you get to the top tier of Pro Archers, then you know enough to deviate, you know what works for you. Its like learning to play a fiddle tucked under the chin, holding it just so, but once you become a master, you can play it however you chose, behind the knees, over the head, etc.
Until you reach that top tier, stick with the Classical T form, it pays dividends and works for the Average Joe and the other 98% of shooters.Gjarcher, thanks for the advice and help not only on this topic but all the topics you have contributed to! Good luck deltahunter! Time to practice, practice, practice!I’ve been shooting the past 2 days and I’m at my end… I tried correcting my stance, grip, and all form issues.. the thing I’m having the biggest problem with is straightening my bow arm. It feels foreign to me. I’m shooting worse than I ever have…even missing the target. What do I do?To straighten the bow arm, you do not ‘push’, but rather rotate bow arm and bow hand clockwise (RH shooter). This will move the bow arm elbow out and up, rotate the bow arm shoulder joint so that it drops into its socket, and reposition the bow hand so that the index finger in on top and the knuckles at a 30º to 45º angle … a natural ‘pointing’ position. The grip pressure should then be on the thumbpad
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