I have a MR6 and a creed. Both have 28″ draw. after reading on here, it seems I need a little shorter draw. My wingspan in 69 inches. Should I get 27″ cam/modules, or 27.5?Also, which modules will I need for MR6?I guess I’m going to try a 27″. What are the numbers/letters on modules to make MR6 27″??Can’t precisely answer your question. Wingspan is only approximate. Different body builds easily result in ±1/2” or more. The Wingspan method assumes your chest width is 15″, which isn’t always the case. For example, I’m 5’9″, my chest is width is 17″ (I take a 42 shirt) and my wingspan is 68.5″, but my proper DL is 28.25″.
Wingspan #1: Wingspan/2.5 = 69/2.5 = 27.6″
Wingspan #2: (Wingspan – 15″)/2 = (69-15)/2 = 27″
Method #3: Height
If your sight picture is steady, then becomes herky-jerky, and tends to suddenly jerk off target, the DL is probably too short. If the sight picture constantly wanders and won’t steady up, and the pin/dot drops below the aim point and is difficult to raise back up, and/or you must lean backward to come to full draw, the DL is probably too long.
Also form factors into the DL decision. If you shoot with a bent elbow, the DL will be shorter than shooting with a straight bow arm. If you are overbowed and have to swell the chest and lean back to draw the bow, the DL will be shorter, although it will look as if too long.
FWIW, I wouldn’t recommend buying new modules based just on a Wingspan measurement. You really need to get a coach or dealer that knows how to correct form issues and get you fitted. All too often I see people shorten their DL when they actually either need a longer DL or simply only need to correct their stance and bow arm, or even more simply, to adjust their peep height, or even more simply, to shorten the strap on the release head and/or D-Loop length.Thanks GJ! I’m 5’9″ also with a 68.5″ wingspan. I’ve got some pics of me holding both bows at full draw. I have no idea how to post pics on here. Can I text you pics?I measured wrong the first time and got 69. I remeasured several more times and I got 68.5 every time
Joined: 5/30/2010Looks pretty good to me.
Joined: 5/30/2010But I’m on my tiny phone. If you clip your release directly to the string and not the d loop does it feel better?Thanks. I emailed GJ some pics before I got these posted. I’m not sure if they got delivered or not. Anxious to get his opinion also, but I appreciate everyone’s input. If anyone else has an opinion, let me hear it. I’m planning on making the trip to the archery shop in the morning.I also struggle with knowing if my DL is correct. I have only been shooting a bow for 7 months. I am 6’1″ and have a wing span of 72″. When I bought my HeliM my Mathews dealer struggled with deciding if I should be a 28.5″ or 29″. They finally decided 29″. I feel comfortable and am getting pretty accurate out to 60yds. I keep wondering if ID be more comfortable and more accurate with a 28.5″ DL? Any thoughts? How do you really know? (Anyone else have trouble posting photos? Every time I try to post a photo it rotates a quarter turn counter clockwise? )The main problem is form issues. The DL is OK, maybe a little short, you won’t know until the form issues are corrected. You may have to readjust the wrist strap length to the jaws to maintain anchor point while working on this.
– Draw arm shoulder is hunched up. This is usually caused by holding the bow low when hooking up the release and rolling the draw arm shoulder while doing it. To prevent this, hook up the release and keep the draw arm elbow down when doing it, then raise the bow slightly above shoulder height before drawing, concentrating on keeping the shoulder down. By having the shoulder hunched up, you can’t pull straight out of the shot, consequently the sight will pull off target.
– Draw arm elbow too low. Usually goes hand in hand with a hunched up shoulder as a means to compensate, not necessarily an indicator that the DL is too long. The elbow should fall on a straight line (blue) from the bow hand pressure point, through the arrow nock, in order to get a straight pull.
– Stance is closed, sideways to target. There are disadvantages to a closed stance.
1. Not stable. Poor balance in wind, on unlevel footing.
2. Closes up clearance between bow arm and string path.
Open the stance slightly to what is called a Nuetral Position by moving the front foot back, this will also rotate the hips and bring the parallel to the shoulders. This is the classic ‘boxers’ stance, or the same stance taught for throwing baseball, football, and golf. It is more stable, and to realign the body to the target all that is need is to repoint the front foot by turning on the heel, which will rotate the entire body without creating any torque. This can’t be done with a closed stance.
– Bow arm is bent. This is a weak position, with muscles holding the weight instead of skeletal structure. Very prone to ‘pushing’ the shot, throwing arrows high right (RH shooter). Rotate bow arm elbow out, this will also correct bow hand grip, and allow the arm to naturally extend. You will gain about a 1/2″ in DL, maybe more.
– Leaning back. Don’t. Stand up straight. Draw the bow away from the face, then bring the bow into the anchor point without moving the head, just so you feel a very slight string touch on the face. Don’t bend the head and align the peep until you are at anchor.
… hope this helps.Thanks GJ!! I Just left the bow shop. I went from a 28″ cam to a 27.5″. I hope I didn’t mess up. I didn’t see your post until after I left.
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