I agree with a tie in nock. I tie mine above and below the nock point to prevent any nock pinch, then put the D-loop around that. I typically tie 4 knots above the nock point and about 6 knots below with the serving. The guy I learned this from suggested 10 knots at the bottom, but that was too long for me. See this link for tieing in your own nocks: http://bowsite.com/bowsite/features/practical_bowhunter/tieone/index.html/quote] Thanks for the link ,i did not want to use brass nock and a lots of guys still use them,but with the string angle on the Chill i just wanted something durable without any movement that last
There are a number of ways to use tied-in nock points inside the D-Loop, each method having some differences:
- One nock point above the nock. This provides a flat spot for a positive nock height where a D-Loop knot does not, which becomes important if the D-Loop tends to twist.
- One nock point above and one nock point below the nock inside the D-Loop. This provides a positive nock height and prevents nock pinch by both leaving a 1/16″ (2mm) gap under the nock and by reducing the sharpness of the string angle at the nock. This method also places the line of pull directly behind the arrow, which makes broadhead tuning easier.
- One nock point under the nock or the lower of two nock points larger than the upper nock point inside of the D-Loop. This will exert some downward force on the launcher which prevents the arrow from lifting off the launcher, and especially good for a blade launcher on windy days. This method also slightly reduces the arrow’s dynamic spine, which could be good or bad depending on the setup, point weight, etc.
John Dudley has an excellent article discussing the various methods and the Pros/Cons:
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