I have a creed bow that is making a significant rattle somewhere in the lower limb/cam area. I checked the Alan screws on the cam, the 4 that go through the limbs, and the one that goes through the draw stop cushion and they are all tight. Then, I placed tape over the two safety washers that hold the axel pin at the rear limb cam and that didn’t help either. I’m hoping the Mathews tech can shed some light on this one for me. It’s loud enough to take the fun out of shooting. Any help would be appriciated.
Joined: 7/22/2013Did you check the cam screw that’s hidden behind the limb?I have not checked that. This bow has a lot of down side. One of the downsides is that you can’t use your easy press on it even if you have the split limb attachment.
To date here is the list of issues I have had with the bow:
1. Bow has hard lean to the right.
2. Paint on limbs cracking in several places
3. The thickness of the riser does not allow fixed blade broad heads to fit without hitting the riser.
4. The lower limbs/camsshave a loud buzz
5. Centershot is extremely close to riser at 11/16 and that makes you have to move your sight far to one sidefor point of impact alignment.
6. Can’t use your ez press with this bow.
Location: VirginiaSounds like there are a few alignments that are off. I don’t have any cracking. The bow is quiet, comparatively. I shoot fix blade BH without any issues, and not even close to touching. No cam lean either. You will not notice 11/16 from 13/16 difference unless you measure it. Your talking about two thickness of a line. What rest, sight, arrows, broadheads are you using? I will say when I’m not shooting well…99 out of 100 times it’s me, not the bow. Take a break and call a friend. My mentor has talked through “my” issues that I overlooked or over thought. So far, it’s always been me.Okay look, my archery level is expert, I am a OCD Architect, and have an IQ of 179. I could explain to you the other items that are compromised with this bow but that would be exhausting and would only result in you not being as happy about your bow as you currently are. One of my blessings in life is being a genius, but one of my curses in life is being a genius. You will just have to trust me when I tell you I know all the tricks to making a bow perform. I can make this bow perform too, but that’s not the point. The bow is not right. Too much effort put forth to make it perform takes the fun out of shooting this bow. Whomever owns my old switchback, Q2, or Q2 XL, I envy you……………
Location: VirginiaExpert and a genius. So you’re perfect. Good for you. You’re also insulting. If you know everything then go design your own bow. I was trying to be helpful but, you apparently never have a bad day of shooting. The rest of us are not perfect and have good days and bad. Good luck.Wrkdvr, my apologies. Remember the “curse” I spoke about? Insulting is apparently a byproduct of the IQ. At least that’s what I have been told by those in the know. Haunted me my whole life. Anyway, I apologize. On the subject of the Cam buzz, here is what I did and perhaps it will help some that are having the same issue:
1. Perform a simple test as follows: holding your Creed so that the draw stop is facing you and the cam ( lower limbs) are in the downward position: with closed fist, bump the side of your lower limbs about 4″ toward the cam from the limb pocket. Continue to bump the limbs, you should begin to here a loud rattle or buzz.
2. Some posts have suggested that you can place a piece of tissue right where the string meets the cam groove thus indicating that the string isbuzzing in the cam groove. That is obtuse. By dampening the string, you are not allowing the string to translate the harmonic vibration to the cam itself, thus you are masking the buzz not addressing the problem. However, upon thinking about that issue, it solidified to me that indeed the cam has a natural harmonic frequency that is causing the buzz. I proved this out by removing the cam from the bow. Testing with various harmonic frequency testers, ( tuning forks) and various anchoring devices. Then I began to remove some components of the cam. Removed the screws that hold the module one at a time, then removed the sealed bearings. Now, the bearings can only be tested so far due to the fact that they are sealed, so I purchased a separate set and replaced the ones that were associated with the cam that was known to buzz, ( which was quite expensive because they sell you the entire Cam not just the bearings) After all the testing I concluded that the assembly of components, Cam, Module, Srews, and draw stop combined resonate.
If you are chasing this same Buzz, you can resolve the issue by changing the natural frequency of the cam assembly. You never want to change the balance of the cam because we must presume that could be dangerous, void warranties, and all sorts of bad stuff. However, I placed a tiny sliver of Velcro ( female side) on my cam. Buzz resolved. Also, in the process of testing all of this, I found that should you remove the one monkey tail string dampener that comes stock on the Creed, you will likely magnify the cam buzz. Once again, I suspect the monkey tail prohibits the string from translating the harmonic frequency to the cam.
Okay look, my archery level is expert, I am a OCD Architect, and have an IQ of 179. I could explain to you the other items that are compromised with this bow but that would be exhausting and would only result in you not being as happy about your bow as you currently are. One of my blessings in life is being a genius, but one of my curses in life is being a genius. You will just have to trust me when I tell you I know all the tricks to making a bow perform. I can make this bow perform too, but that’s not the point. The bow is not right. Too much effort put forth to make it perform takes the fun out of shooting this bow. Whomever owns my old switchback, Q2, or Q2 XL, I envy you……………
Sheldon?Ha! Now that is a great parallel. Whomever cast that character indeed has some insight into high IQ character flaws……..nickelwhat?,
Now hopefully Mathews will take your findings and resolve this issue that appears they have been avoiding!! Thank you!!1Knight, ya that will likely come via creed generation 2. Or maybe they were way ahead of their time when they produced the switchback………maybe we all switchback after owning the creed! BTW, where did all the switchbacks go? Can’t find them anywhere. It’s like there was a conspiracy to buy them all back and melt them down or something. That was an absolutely awesome bow. I think if I ran across one again I would buy it and just use itforever and get out of this vicious circle of new model purchases.
Joined: 1/19/2013Hello nickelwhat?,
Thanks for taking the time to find a fix to the cam buzz issue. Where exactly on the cam do yo apply the velcro? Is it possible to post a pic? It would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again2013 Creed Lost Camo HHA Optimizer Ultra 2" QAD HDXNbhunter,
There is a flat spot where the draw length code is located. I placed the Velcro patch there. You will need to expierement with the size that works to silence your particular buzz.
Joined: 1/19/2013I tried to fix my ” buzz” with the velcro, but unfortunately with no success. I tried different sizes of patch and no luck! The only way that I can stop the buzz is with a piece of tissue wedge betweeen the string and the cam.. I then can beat the limbs everywhere and no sound!?
2013 Creed Lost Camo HHA Optimizer Ultra 2" QAD HDXHmmm, I removed my Velcro and got the buzz back, put the Velcro back on and buzz went away. By chance do you still have the monkey tail on your string?
- This reply was modified 1 year, 4 months ago by NBhunter.
What happens if you back your limbs out a turn or two and try to get the buzz? ( by backing the limb out you should be changing the string tension and thus the vibration frequency of the string vs cam. I would be interested to see if that affects your specific bow.
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