Location: okLet me first say I am a self diagnosed OCD archer. I am also an Architect and overly detailed when it comes to matters of design and engineering.
I purchased a new Creed a few months ago. I generally purchase the new model Mathews about every year or two. I haven’t owned all the models but I have owned many. This Creed has been causing me a little grief and I thought I would ask a few questions on this forum for help.
1. The riser on this creed is thicker than I recall previous models. Especially at the area near the rest. This is causing my fixed blades to hit the riser.
2. Center shot on this bow appears to like 11/16 as opposed to 13/16 as previous models. I read several post of archers finding the same center shot of 11/16. The result of this tight-to-riser center shot has made my favorite rest, trophy taker shaky hunter, a NO-GO as the prong width, which was a great asset to that rest, hit the riser and scratch off my riser finish. Now I have a bright aluminum splotch to mask when I go hunting.
3. This bow is the first Mathews bow that I have had to adjust my 2nd Axis on my sight for level. The natural balance point for this bow tends to be slightly to the right (on a RH bow). I have also tested several bows at archery shoots with other archers and all are experiencing the same problem. Some didn’t realize it until I pointed it out to them. Some were aware of the problem and one archer even said he is having to place his bow hand pinky on his stabilizer to force the bow to level ( to compensate for the natural right side lean of the bow). At first I thought a simple V stabilizer on the left side would balance this out, however, it took a tremendous amount of weight to counter balance the problem and establish a correct centroid for this bow. I even stripped all my accessories off of this bow, weighed them, and then assembled the weight on a V bar and that did not compensate for the issue.
4. I have made sure I tried several arrow spines,arrow lengths, tip weights, etc. My archery level is expert, and my ability to omit torque etc is expert in my opinion, so, I hope you trust I know what I’m talking about.
What I am about to ask may never receive an answer, but, I hope it does, please advise if this bow simply has some known faults. My OCD has me spending way too much time on this bow.
Joined: 7/22/2013I’ve made similar observations. Sold two Switchbacks to purchase a new Creed and am questioning my decision. Noticed the issue with the 2nd axis and have just been disregarding my sight’s level. Am able to achieve some consistency with field points but it takes more concentration than I think should be required from a hunting rig. Have not been able to tune out left tear at 6 feet and broadheads consistently fly right (5 inches at 30). Developing some string vibration and limb pocket vibration from lower limb. Quite frankly I am getting tired of hearing its the “shooter” and torque is causing everything.
Here’s a group from 40 yds with FPs.
30 draw 62 draw weight 30ata
Location: okCreed 27,
I purposely did not mention that I can stack my field points within a 3″ dia circle out to 50 because most would reply by saying, ” that’s good enough.” But, I have 25 years of archery experience competing at a high level within 3D circuits. Trust me when I say it takes all my skill to get this bow to do this. It’s exhausting. I know this is a hunting bow, but every other Mathews hunting bow I’ve owned was more than worthy of a win, place, or show at most tournaments. In fact, I bet I have a few dozen trophies from 3D tournaments where I took my hunting bows to competition. I can get almost any bow to stack now days, but I want my equipment to perform as it should without having to make concessions to my other accessories. I don’t want to have to adjust my 2nd axis on my sight past true horizontal, I don’t want to have to adjust my sight all the dang way to one side to get aligned with my arrow’s point of impact, and I sure don’t want to have to stare at my sight bubble for 20 seconds at full draw to get my bow level before the shot. As a designer myself, I can’t understand why the bow manufacturers have this obsession with micro clearances. I mean, please!, give us a little extra room for fletching clearances for goodness sakes. I shoot 1″ blazer vanes and when my bows are setup with spec center shots, you couldn’t fit a human hair between my fletching and the stinking cables. Good grief. I’m starting to feel like I dropped a grand on a lemon. Thank goodness I kept my C3 and Z7E. For me, I love Mathews bows, but I am too detailed oriented to keep this creed. Hell, I even watched a video tonight with Levi Morgan hunting with his Creed. I thought, this will be good, maybe I will watch him stick a big deer with his Creed and somehow I will feel a little better about my Creed. NO-GO! He missed the deer standing broadside at 30 yards and he was dejected, looked at the camera and said “I don’t understand what happened”. I think I know what happened Levi, Creed happened. Your right side torque bow pulled your arrow 5″ right, just like it does mine and just like it does Creed 27′s. And, you don’t have the fletching clearance to place wider vanes on your arrows to correct the flight of your broad heads. Now, I presume, perhaps, the designers of the Creed may think we will love this bow IF, we shoot 1″ vanes, narrow prong style arrow rests, or narrow drop always, nothing but mechanical broad heads, and have a sight with no bubble level. That’s not my bag……..I’m switching horses to a helium or another model. Lastly, I had to place Atheletic tape on the washers that hold the cam pin in place because they rattle. …………$999.00…………Classic.
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