Chill right tear

Home Forums Archery Tech Forum Chill right tear

This topic contains 4 replies, has 4 contributors, and was last updated by bow-drawn Bow Drawn 1 year, 2 months ago.

Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • March 14, 2013 at 11:56 am #568742 Back to Top REPORT
    jmjarosh
    jmjarosh

    Joined: 1/13/2013
    I have a new right hand Chill, 60 pound, shooting easton axis 400 arrows with blazer veins, QAD drop-a-way rest.  I am getting a 1/2 inch right teat.  I can move the rest away from the riser to get a bullet hole.  problem is…  then the arrow is pointing too far left for my sight adjustment.  Fletching may be contacting the cables.  What adjustment can I make to get more clearance past the cables.  I can move the nocking point up closer to the cable guard, giving me more clearance (I would raise the rest accordingly).  Is this the adjustment I should make, or is there something else I can do?

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 2 months ago by vince71969 vince71969.
    April 19, 2013 at 11:27 am #574601 Back to Top REPORT

    Raptor

    Joined: 9/28/2009
    Turn your cock fletch to the 1:00 o-clock position.  had the same issue with my Heli-m.
    April 24, 2013 at 10:15 pm #575472 Back to Top REPORT

    tostra1

    Joined: 4/19/2013
    View My Bows
    Experiencing the same issue as jmjarosh.  RH 70 lb draw Chill at 30″ dl with QAD HDX rest.  Shooting an Easton A/C/C 3-71 300.  The only difference is I am getting a 3″ right tear.  I have attempted to broadhead tune and encountered more and more issues.  I have attempted moving nocking point, different arrows (1 dozen different types) and 6 different rests. I am able to get a bullethole tear with the HDX adjusted all the way to the left. I changed rest in the idea that the HDX couldn’t match the speed of the chill, not the case. I have it in 1000 fps film speed being down 6″ ahead of the fletchings crossing. I tried Raptor’s suggestion above as well as 3 different fletching types.

    I am up against yoke tuning to try to bring it back to center shot, but I don’t believe a bow from the factory should be this far out.

    I am open to any suggestions at this point as I am still wanting to shoot this bow for 3D this summer….

    April 25, 2013 at 12:00 am #575475 Back to Top REPORT

    tostra1

    Joined: 4/19/2013
    View My Bows
    I wanted to make an update….  I put on a 30″ stabilizer to get a better feel for what was going on.  At full draw I noted that the stabilizer was point to the right of my target line.  I purposely torqued the bow to bring my stabilizer onto the target line, and miraculously, I have a tuned bow.  Now as you are about to say, that is not going to be consistent and I agree.  I now believe that there are 2 solutions to my problem, 1 – try a different grip than the focus grip or 2 – find a different bow….

    Any other suggestions?

    I will update after I change the grip tomorrow night

    May 24, 2013 at 3:17 pm #578887 Back to Top REPORT
    bow-drawn
    Bow Drawn

    Age: 62
    Joined: 11/14/2007
    Location: Ohio
    View My Bows

    I have a new right hand Chill, 60 pound, shooting easton axis 400 arrows with blazer veins, QAD drop-a-way rest. I am getting a 1/2 inch right teat. I can move the rest away from the riser to get a bullet hole. problem is… then the arrow is pointing too far left for my sight adjustment. Fletching may be contacting the cables. What adjustment can I make to get more clearance past the cables. I can move the nocking point up closer to the cable guard, giving me more clearance (I would raise the rest accordingly). Is this the adjustment I should make, or is there something else I can do? 

    • This reply was modified 1 day, 5 hours ago by Bow Drawnvince71969.

    What draw length are you? And have you measured the center shot from the riser to the middle of the shaft of the arrow?

Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)