Can I adjust my drawlength by placing spacers under my grip?

Home Forums Technical FAQ Can I adjust my drawlength by placing spacers under my grip?

This topic contains 8 replies, has 7 contributors, and was last updated by l-o-s-t-arrow L.O.S.T.Arrow 2 years, 1 month ago.

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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  • August 17, 2006 at 10:33 pm #495142 Back to Top REPORT
    symo
    Symo


    Joined: 6/29/2004
    For some reason I think there is a lot of confusion going on with draw length and the post about putting popsicle sticks under your grip. The draw-length of a compound bow is defined as the distance from the lowest point in the grip to nocking point on the string when the bow is drawn to to middle of the valley or to the draw-stop on some bows.

    If you remove your grip altogether, you are increasing the distance from lowest point on the grip to the string at full draw. This then effectively makes this bow a longer draw length. If you put popsicle sticks under the grip, you have moved the lowest point on the grip closer to the string a full draw, and this effectively makes the bow a shorter draw length.

    Draw length is a characteristic of the bow, not really the archer. An archer can take a measurement to see what draw-length bow will fit them the best. An archer’s “draw-length” can change because of various things from changing release aids, changing anchor points, going from straight to bent arm, etc etc. With the post regarding the popsicle sticks, if you owned a bow with a 29.5″ AMO (ATA) draw, and you were a good enough archer to realize that you actually needed a 29.25″ draw, you could place popsicle sticks under the grip to reduce the draw-length of the bow by 0.25″. With that said, this method may not be the most aesthetically pleasing solution, and one may find other methods of changing the draw-length of the bow slightly that don’t change the aesthetics. Some of these other methods may involve cam rotation, which then could require a limb bolt adjustment to maintain draw weight if the archer were not already shooting the bow maxed out. This popsicle method could allow for a slight modification without requiring retuning the bow. Personally I wouldn’t care for the spacing or gap created between the grip and the riser.

    In this question, if the grips are made correctly, changing from low, medium or high wrist grips should NOT change the draw length of the bow, because the lowest point on the grip should be the same for all of them. Shooting these different style grips COULD change the archer’s draw-length requirement.

    September 28, 2006 at 1:34 am #503645 Back to Top REPORT

    Carlos

    Joined: 12/10/2004
    “Some of these other methods may involve cam rotation, which then could require a limb bolt adjustment to maintain draw weight if the archer were not already shooting the bow maxed out.”

    Symo could you please explain some of this methods , It would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
    Carlos

    November 16, 2009 at 1:24 pm #503646 Back to Top REPORT
    t600
    T600

    Joined: 8/31/2009
    i use a strip of racket grip tape down the palm edge of m A7 grip to give me about a 16th off my draw length. better looking than popsicle stick and gives a good positive lock/feel.
    October 3, 2011 at 12:36 am #503647 Back to Top REPORT

    red44

    Joined: 8/9/2005
    Is’nt AMO the DEEPEST part of the grip? (not lowest)
    October 3, 2011 at 3:30 pm #503648 Back to Top REPORT
    l-o-s-t-arrow
    L.O.S.T.Arrow

    Joined: 5/16/2006
    Location: Alberta
    Is’nt AMO the DEEPEST part of the grip? (not lowest)

    :D Same meaning :D

    Neil

    February 21, 2012 at 12:31 am #503649 Back to Top REPORT
    whitetailfanatic
    whitetailfanatic

    Joined: 6/11/2007
    So you are trying to shorten your DL?
    Monster M7 User here!
    February 22, 2012 at 4:33 pm #503650 Back to Top REPORT
    l-o-s-t-arrow
    L.O.S.T.Arrow

    Joined: 5/16/2006
    Location: Alberta
    So you are trying to shorten your DL?

    :D Only thing it will do…it was a method used by bare bow, long bow shooters to adjust grips for them at one time and someone thought it was a good idea for compounds..which in my opionin is not..there are other simple methods to do so..
    :D
    Neil

    November 19, 2012 at 2:08 am #503651 Back to Top REPORT

    3-D Junkie

    Joined: 5/28/2012
    Actually by shimming under the grip you will get a shorter “perceived” draw length, but you are completely overlooking what is actually taking place. When you shim the grip you are actually reducing the brace height of the bow. Basically you are reducing brace height by shimming and in a way increasing the perceived reflex in the riser. Neither of these are desirable things for accuracy. Normally a manufacturer uses short brace heights and reflexed riser design to make bows fast as it increases the “power stroke” but it generally decreases the forgiveness. But by shimming you will not get that gain unless you change to a longer cam because your “power stroke” will be the same, and that defeats your purpose for doing this any way.
    So basically you will lose forgiveness with no gain in speed. Is 1/4″ worth it? Maybe just shorten the D-loop or go to a shorter cam with a bit longer loop.

    Just my opinion.

    November 19, 2012 at 5:41 pm #503652 Back to Top REPORT
    l-o-s-t-arrow
    L.O.S.T.Arrow

    Joined: 5/16/2006
    Location: Alberta

    Actually by shimming under the grip you will get a shorter “perceived” draw length, but you are completely overlooking what is actually taking place. When you shim the grip you are actually reducing the brace height of the bow. Basically you are reducing brace height by shimming and in a way increasing the perceived reflex in the riser. Neither of these are desirable things for accuracy. Normally a manufacturer uses short brace heights and reflexed riser design to make bows fast as it increases the “power stroke” but it generally decreases the forgiveness. But by shimming you will not get that gain unless you change to a longer cam because your “power stroke” will be the same, and that defeats your purpose for doing this any way.
    So basically you will lose forgiveness with no gain in speed. Is 1/4″ worth it? Maybe just shorten the D-loop or go to a shorter cam with a bit longer loop.

    :D :thumbup :welcome to the forum :solocam :thumbup

    Neil
    Just my opinion.[/quote:36t4uxla]

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