Ok I will try that tomorrow. But wont putting a twist on the right yoke make it worse… larger than 1/8″?[/quote:2r0xx8dz]
Right … Left … Add … Remove … whichever yoke needs adjusting to get the idler to be up/down at full draw with the string tracking off of it true.
You’ll need someone to eyeball it for you. Like I said, the gap is just the starting point. When my Z7 Mag was up/down with the string tracking true I had little or no gap at the nock point. This seems to be the new norm with the Z7-series/HeliM/etc.
I would use this as a perfect draw picture using Mathews center serving, hrelease hand placement, form…one of the images I look for with a new bow/shooter draw…
Joined: 1/31/2008Out of my league with the advice given here but….
When I shoot with bow hand fingers extended, even as little as shown in the pics, I have torque issues. In my case even one finger with tension means that thumb muscle is tense as well=torque. I just remember to shoot with a relaxed thumb and it’s all good.
Joined: 9/23/2009Ok I had some time and rechecked a few things on the bow. I now having the broadheads and fieldpoint hitting the same. Here are the things that I ended up doing and my final specs.
The first thing I did was have someone take pictures of me while I drew back the bow. I thought I was good on cam lean until I seen the pictures. I ended up having to put 2 full twists into the left (shelf side) yoke to get the string running parallel off the wheel. When running a arrow off the shelf side of idler wheel It looks exactly like gjarcher’s pic:
After that adjustment I put 2 twists into the string to bring my ATA to 30 and cam timing centered in the window. This also gave me a 7 in brace-height.
Center shot ended up at 11/16th. My nocking point ended up at ~5/32″ low. I thought that was very strange. [/color:l0ad1zqb]
After Paper tuning the nocking point had to come down probably about 1/8″ to get the broadheads grouping with the fieldpoints.
After walk back tuning the center shot was set and never needed adjusted.
Thanks for everyones help. I really do appreciate it.
Is there anything wrong with having a low nocking point? I have never heard of someone tuning their bow and ending up with a low nocking point?
Joined: 9/23/2009This is a picture of my arrow square and nocking point.
Joined: 11/23/2012Yotebuster 1200, you’ve received a lot of good input and ideas to your posting. One thing that’s not been mentioned in this string – have you tried different brands of fixed blade broadheads?? I helped a friend out who was having similar issues as you this year – we had his Z7 Extreme shooting bullet holes on paper and he was grouping really well out to 60 yards with field points. His (fixed blade) broadheads however, shooting consistently off center (low-right). After re-verifying and confirming paper tuning, cam lean, grip, torque, fletching contact, center shot, etc etc etc, we even videotaped him and watched arrow flight in slo-mo (sick). Don’t know why it took us so long, but I finally had him screw in a couple of my own broadheads and viola, problem solved. That caused us to run out and we bought six different brands of fixed blade heads (other than the two we owned already). I won’t say which brands as they are all recognized, tried and true, but at 40 yds, two of those six brands grouped significantly off center (for both him and me), two others slightly off center-right, and the others were spot-on – and we shot those two heads (and my original heads) out to 80 yards with no issues. Go figure. I’m not sure that we discovered a solution but clearly, not all broadheads are created equal in my opinion. Once you’ve eliminated “the obvious”, you may want to try a different brand head or two. Yeah, it was a bit costly to experiement like we did, but a better option than making yourself crazy trying to fix a “mechanical or form issue” that doesn’t exist! If you find that every head you shoot groups off in the same spot, at least maybe that will lead you back to a more traditional problem that does need fixin’.
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