Broadheads shooting right no matter what!!!

Home Forums Archery Tech Forum Broadheads shooting right no matter what!!!

This topic contains 20 replies, has 10 contributors, and was last updated by  bowfisher1 2 years ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)
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  • November 19, 2012 at 12:18 am #496873 Back to Top REPORT

    yotebuster1200

    Joined: 9/23/2009
    Specs:
    Z7 at a 30 in draw @ 70 lbs.
    Gold Tip kinetics .300 spined cut at 30 in over all length.
    100 gr. tips.
    100 gr. G5 montec CS broadhead.
    ATA 30
    BH 7in
    Idle wheel running parallel at full draw ~ 1/8 away from string (shelf side) when bow is relaxed.

    I can go out and shoot good groups with my field points and good groups with my broadheads. No matter what I do with my rest. I have gone as far in as fletching contact and as far out as 1″ center shot. Nothing seams to bring the field points and broadheads any closer together. I have tried adjusting the Draw weight from 60 lb to maxed out (72 lbs)

    So what else can I check. Is it my grip??? am I torquing the bow. If so what pictures would you like me to post so you can determine if it is my grip?

    What else can I check?

    November 20, 2012 at 12:49 am #540861 Back to Top REPORT

    yotebuster1200

    Joined: 9/23/2009
    No thoughts???
    November 20, 2012 at 1:37 am #540862 Back to Top REPORT

    gottalovemathews

    Joined: 8/22/2008
    What you need to do is paper tune your bow with your fieldpoints to get your elevation correct, don’t worry about paper tuning for center shot. After getting your up and down set, walk back tune for center shot and your good to go. Now if you have already done all of this and they are still not hitting in the same spot, just move your sight left or right so that your broadheads hit where you are aiming, but DONT move your rest, you can make a little mark on your sight where to reset for 3d shooting. Trust me I have tried to get my points and broadheads to hit the same spot and its not possible for me. I know my bow is tuned and I can’t do anything more so I just adjust my sights come hunting season. Dont stress over it! Hope that helps.
    November 20, 2012 at 3:58 am #540863 Back to Top REPORT
    elc1973
    Elc1973

    Joined: 1/20/2012
    Location: Alaska
    View My Bows
    Arrow spine?
    November 20, 2012 at 2:29 pm #540864 Back to Top REPORT
    glsexton
    glsexton

    Joined: 7/26/2008
    Adjust your sight and be done with it.
    November 20, 2012 at 2:38 pm #540865 Back to Top REPORT
    crazystups
    CrazyStups

    Joined: 9/13/2005
    Have you walk back tuned it? Sounds like a center shot problem.
    November 20, 2012 at 10:00 pm #540866 Back to Top REPORT
    gjarcher
    gjarcher

    Age: 71
    Joined: 10/3/2006
    Location: Colorado
    View My Bows

    … Is it my grip??? am I torquing the bow…
    What else can I check?[/quote:2arb7dnz]
    The arrow spine is fine.:thumbup

    Where is the centershot now and what is the nock height now?

    Hand torquing the bow or having too much string pressure on the face or both can produce the problem you describe.

    Take a picture and look at it; if it doesn’t look like the grip in these articles and video, you need to correct your bow hand placement. Experiment with bow hand grip pressure to see how the broadheads react. [=}=]

    http://arrowtrademagazine.com/articles/ … Basics.pdf

    http://www.buckmasters.com/bm/Resources … -Grip.aspx

    http://www.bowtube.com/media/6/Get_A_Grip/

    November 20, 2012 at 11:42 pm #540867 Back to Top REPORT
    tominator
    Tominator

    Joined: 9/19/2007
    Just for kicks and easy to do….try adding one full twist in right yoke as viewed from string side of bow.
    November 20, 2012 at 11:54 pm #540868 Back to Top REPORT
    gjarcher
    gjarcher

    Age: 71
    Joined: 10/3/2006
    Location: Colorado
    View My Bows
    Just for kicks and easy to do….try adding one full twist in right yoke as viewed from string side of bow.

    :agree

    Tuning (idler lean) could still be the issue, since the introductory comment that good groups can be had no matter where the centershot is just doesn’t make sense.

    FWIW, the 1/8″ gap is just a starting point; the true adjustment is to have the idler straight up/down at full draw with the string tracking straight off of it. This requires someone to eyeball it while you are at full draw … or do as Tominator suggests.

    Persistent poor paper tear is a result of something over riding centershot settings … could be idler lean, could be bow hand torque. :smt69

    November 21, 2012 at 3:27 am #540869 Back to Top REPORT

    yotebuster1200

    Joined: 9/23/2009
    Sorry for the cell phone pics. My wife borrowed our camera out.

    I was hoping these would give enough information so we could maybe rule out some things.

    November 21, 2012 at 3:31 am #540870 Back to Top REPORT

    yotebuster1200

    Joined: 9/23/2009
    What you need to do is paper tune your bow with your fieldpoints to get your elevation correct, don’t worry about paper tuning for center shot. After getting your up and down set, walk back tune for center shot and your good to go. Now if you have already done all of this and they are still not hitting in the same spot, just move your sight left or right so that your broadheads hit where you are aiming, but DONT move your rest, you can make a little mark on your sight where to reset for 3d shooting. Trust me I have tried to get my points and broadheads to hit the same spot and its not possible for me. I know my bow is tuned and I can’t do anything more so I just adjust my sights come hunting season. Dont stress over it! Hope that helps.

    This is what I have been doing up until now. I was just hoping to get the same point of impact so when I am out hunting and I see a squirrel or a grouse I could pull out a judo or rubber blunt and fire away. Right now I have to compensate for the shot. It would just be nice if they shot the same.

    If it comes down to it I will go back and do as you suggest. It is more important to me that my broadheads fly true and accurate than being able to shoot both at the same time.

    Thanks Scott

    November 21, 2012 at 3:47 am #540871 Back to Top REPORT
    gjarcher
    gjarcher

    Age: 71
    Joined: 10/3/2006
    Location: Colorado
    View My Bows
    FWIW, I’d follow Tominator’s advice. :thumbup

    1/8″ out from nock point seems a bit much for the Z7. This is where my Z7 Mag idler lean adjusted to:

    November 21, 2012 at 3:49 am #540872 Back to Top REPORT

    yotebuster1200

    Joined: 9/23/2009

    … Is it my grip??? am I torquing the bow…
    What else can I check?[/quote:3dbncbmz]
    The arrow spine is fine.:thumbup

    Where is the centershot now and what is the nock height now?

    [/quote:3dbncbmz]

    I will have to reset some things before I respond to this part. With the bow paper tuned and walk back tuned it is at 23/32″ And nock height is 1/4 in up.

    November 21, 2012 at 3:50 am #540873 Back to Top REPORT

    yotebuster1200

    Joined: 9/23/2009

    Just for kicks and easy to do….try adding one full twist in right yoke as viewed from string side of bow.

    :agree

    Persistent poor paper tear is a result of something over riding centershot settings … could be idler lean, could be bow hand torque. :smt69[/quote:cxddcxij]

    I can get it to paper tune just fine. I am just having a hard time getting the broadheads to not hit right of the field points, regardless of the center shot (rest position)

    November 21, 2012 at 3:52 am #540874 Back to Top REPORT

    yotebuster1200

    Joined: 9/23/2009
    http://forums.mathewsinc.com/images/userpix/8674_Z7Mag_Idler_14.jpg[/img]

    Ok I will try that tomorrow. But wont putting a twist on the right yoke make it worse… larger than 1/8″?

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