Bow Tuning Guide…Updated!! -As Requested!!

Home Forums Archery Tech Forum Bow Tuning Guide…Updated!! -As Requested!!

This topic contains 311 replies, has 80 contributors, and was last updated by bow-drawn Bow Drawn 1 month ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 226 through 240 (of 312 total)
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  • August 9, 2012 at 2:49 pm #531448 Back to Top REPORT

    KevMc

    Joined: 6/5/2011
    28) Reset nocking point approx ¼ above 90 degrees from bottom of rest and readjust kisser and/or peep.

    Is this for a top or bottom nocking point??
    Arrow would be nocked above/below this point ..

    August 9, 2012 at 3:07 pm #531449 Back to Top REPORT
    l-o-s-t-arrow
    L.O.S.T.Arrow

    Joined: 5/16/2006
    Location: Alberta

    28) Reset nocking point approx ¼ above 90 degrees from bottom of rest and readjust kisser and/or peep.

    Is this for a top or bottom nocking point??
    Arrow would be nocked above/below this point ..[/quote:1437r7t2]

    :D This would be top nock point with any style nock point set up
    …this is top knot in loop..arrow will be below this nock point

    clear like mud?
    :D
    Neil

    August 9, 2012 at 3:45 pm #531450 Back to Top REPORT

    KevMc

    Joined: 6/5/2011
    clear! Thanks!!

    Arrow will be about perpindicular to string..

    August 9, 2012 at 4:25 pm #531451 Back to Top REPORT
    l-o-s-t-arrow
    L.O.S.T.Arrow

    Joined: 5/16/2006
    Location: Alberta

    clear! Thanks!!

    Arrow will be about perpindicular to string..[/quote:213exrlf]

    :D :thumbup or slightly nock high

    August 21, 2012 at 2:53 pm #531452 Back to Top REPORT
    l-o-s-t-arrow
    L.O.S.T.Arrow

    Joined: 5/16/2006
    Location: Alberta
    TTT..As Discussed :D
    August 31, 2012 at 6:10 pm #531453 Back to Top REPORT
    bow-drawn
    Bow Drawn

    Age: 63
    Joined: 11/14/2007
    Location: Ohio
    View My Bows
    TTT what a resource :thumbup
    September 13, 2012 at 11:24 am #531454 Back to Top REPORT
    fireman-09
    Fireman 09

    Joined: 6/8/2006
    View My Bows

    Helim[/u]

    *Grub 1 1/4″ from where string leaves cam to bottom of grub…as there is no string suppressor to measure from…Note Thats with Cam alignment/timing cable centered in window…if high or low allow for that 1 1/4 measurement…

    *Idler wheel lean is closer to string than most models…some even in line with straight edge at nock point.

    * The HeliM really shoots well slightly low in alignment/timing window and ATA 1/16 short…which is standard specs when we retune spec on the HeliM.

    * Assure that set screws are always tight on roller guard, Dead Stop and modular on cam…as these have been known to loosen on the Helim, Blue locktite can be used to secure as the Blue will break free when needed..

    :D
    Neil[/quote:6c283q6k]
    Just went over your tuning guide again…thanks for the HeliM update. What a great reference, thanks for taking the time to do it. :thumbup

    September 22, 2012 at 3:14 am #531455 Back to Top REPORT
    buckeyebowman
    buckeyebowman

    Age: 62
    Joined: 9/9/2004
    ttt Gotta keep it up there! Sticky?
    It's not how far you shoot, but how close you get.
    October 1, 2012 at 3:54 pm #531456 Back to Top REPORT
    l-o-s-t-arrow
    L.O.S.T.Arrow

    Joined: 5/16/2006
    Location: Alberta
    :D VA :thumbup
    October 9, 2012 at 5:55 pm #531457 Back to Top REPORT

    Onytay

    Joined: 8/20/2012

    Helim[/u]

    *Grub 1 1/4″ from where string leaves cam to bottom of grub…as there is no string suppressor to measure from…Note Thats with Cam alignment/timing cable centered in window…if high or low allow for that 1 1/4 measurement…

    *Idler wheel lean is closer to string than most models…some even in line with straight edge at nock point.

    * The HeliM really shoots well slightly low in alignment/timing window and ATA 1/16 short…which is standard specs when we retune spec on the HeliM.[/color:3ev4nzw4]

    * Assure that set screws are always tight on roller guard, Dead Stop and modular on cam…as these have been known to loosen on the Helim, Blue locktite can be used to secure as the Blue will break free when needed..

    :D
    Neil[/quote:3ev4nzw4]

    Neil,

    Could you show a pic of what you consider low? I’m setting my Helim to spec and I have the cable on the low side but don’t want to be to low because my ATA is right at 30 and I would like to get to that 1/16 under you said worked well. If my timing is where you recommend then do I add twist to string to drop that extra 1/16?

    Never thought I’d be seeking the help of a Canadian :D ha ha just kidding, thanks for the help!

    October 11, 2012 at 8:18 pm #531458 Back to Top REPORT
    l-o-s-t-arrow
    L.O.S.T.Arrow

    Joined: 5/16/2006
    Location: Alberta

    Helim[/u]

    *Grub 1 1/4″ from where string leaves cam to bottom of grub…as there is no string suppressor to measure from…Note Thats with Cam alignment/timing cable centered in window…if high or low allow for that 1 1/4 measurement…

    *Idler wheel lean is closer to string than most models…some even in line with straight edge at nock point.

    * The HeliM really shoots well slightly low in alignment/timing window and ATA 1/16 short…which is standard specs when we retune spec on the HeliM.[/color:24w75fkw]

    * Assure that set screws are always tight on roller guard, Dead Stop and modular on cam…as these have been known to loosen on the Helim, Blue locktite can be used to secure as the Blue will break free when needed..

    :D
    Neil[/quote:24w75fkw]

    Neil,

    Could you show a pic of what you consider low? I’m setting my Helim to spec and I have the cable on the low side but don’t want to be to low because my ATA is right at 30 and I would like to get to that 1/16 under you said worked well. If my timing is where you recommend then do I add twist to string to drop that extra 1/16?

    Never thought I’d be seeking the help of a Canadian :D ha ha just kidding, thanks for the help![/quote:24w75fkw]

    :D Even if strings have well settled…when spec tuning they will settle slightly again with twisting of strings…

    so I set the cable low in window and it will settle 100% dead center…or as I like mine still slightly low in window…

    Green[/color:24w75fkw] being cable when spec tuning…

    Neil

    October 11, 2012 at 9:51 pm #531459 Back to Top REPORT
    l-o-s-t-arrow
    L.O.S.T.Arrow

    Joined: 5/16/2006
    Location: Alberta
    :D HELIM OWNERS…[/u:15rwbnt1]

    I Will address this again with a little more emphasis…

    There are three bolts/screws Total on the HeliM Cam mod..one is visible and accessible however the other two are hid by the limb…you will need the correct Torx Bit and a press to properly tighten them…

    It happens with the force the HeliM puts out…the bolts/Screws have blue loc-Tite on them … but reapply if they are loose…

    Every HeliM should be checked after the first several hundred arrows like any other bow/cams

    One will need a press to access them safely…

    RE:
    http://forums.mathewsinc.com/archery-4/ … se-213632/

    :thumbup
    Neil

    October 14, 2012 at 5:06 am #531460 Back to Top REPORT
    gjarcher
    gjarcher

    Age: 71
    Joined: 10/3/2006
    Location: Colorado
    View My Bows
    A press is nice, but not necessary to inspect or maintain the cam module bolts.

    Just pull down on the cable to rotate the cam and bring the bolts into view. If you want to work on them, one can tie down the cable to the riser with a short piece of stout cord … make about five turns around the cable and riser, cinching down on each turn, and the cam will be rotated and held in position.

    I use this technique in the field, at Elk camp, and on the range.

    Another approach is to use a simple draw board to draw the string, rotate the cam enough to inspect and maintain the cam module bolts. Total Cost: under $40.
    http://www.amazon.com/Reese-74337-Towpo … iler+winch

    October 15, 2012 at 3:05 pm #531461 Back to Top REPORT
    l-o-s-t-arrow
    L.O.S.T.Arrow

    Joined: 5/16/2006
    Location: Alberta
    :D Good point Brian.. :thumbup …I just didnt/dont want to see anyone with a large allan key in bolt let down unexpectedly wedged into the limb doing damage to cam, limb or both…cause you know its gonna happen :^O

    :D
    Neil

    October 15, 2012 at 5:35 pm #531462 Back to Top REPORT
    l-o-s-t-arrow
    L.O.S.T.Arrow

    Joined: 5/16/2006
    Location: Alberta
    i need better pics :oops:

    Here is the HeliM cam using R.Phillips picture of his cam…
    the three red circles show approx locations of the three TORX bolts securing the mod on the HeliM cam

    as you can see the one bolt is visible..the other mostly hidden by limb fork and the other totally hidden…

    Again a specialized TorX key is needed to tighten these…

    :D
    Neil

Viewing 15 posts - 226 through 240 (of 312 total)