Location: Van Wert County, OhioI have a pair of Steiner’s as my light and cheap binoculars and Zeiss for the more expensive binoculars. I agree with Brian, the 8 power binocs are plenty for what most people need. Definitely better FOV and a little easier to hold still.
Joined: 5/30/2010the best pair of binoculars i have ever peek thru were Swarvo 10×42’s with that HD thing. (swarvo-vison?)
man they were sharp!!
side by side with the 10x..it was more difficult to call. my Leica or the Swavo. last year at elk camp my friend opened a box and he had about $10k worth of binos. he chose the 8x, and loaned my buddy his 10x. he left early, and took all the binos home leaving my friend with his only option. his cheap $50 bass pro binos. it was comical. after 5 days, his eyes got used to the better optics. putting up the cheap bino to his eyes almost made him cry.
but in the end..he was the guy that arrowed the elk..ahhaha
Joined: 5/16/2006Agree on getting the best binos you can afford, and waiting until you can afford good-excellent ones.
I picked up a used pair of Leupold 7×20 binos years ago. They were made by Leica and have phenomenal lenses.
For archery season they are the “go to” binos. Personally I like lower power in binos, and have used Swarovski 7×42’s out west with great results. It’s amazing how much better you can make out detail with clear lenses in a quality bino versus the mediocre lenses in a cheap bino.
If you want all purpose binos I’d go with with about an 8x magnification, but if you get compact ones with objective lenses less than about 24 mm I’d go down to 6x-7x to get better low light performance. High power with small lenses kills dawn and dusk brightness and resolution. Also, for the same money you typically get better performance from porro prism (dog-leg shaped) binos than from roof prism (straight bodied) because the porro prism design doesn’t require phase correction coatings like roof prism does for maximum image sharpness. Phase coating adds to cost, so roof prism binos with phase corrective coatings will have similar image quality to porro prism binos of less cost – assuming that the quality of the prisms are equivalent.
In low light most people’s pupils dilate to 5-7 mm, so the best binos are ones that have an exit pupil close to that size. It maximizes the percent of light from the bino that gets to your eye and spreads that light over more of your retina – which makes the image clearer and brighter. When lighting is bright it doesn’t really matter that much but in low light this is critical. This is why a pair of 10×25 binos look great in the store and then have poor low light performance in the woods. It’s like squinting hard when looking at something, you lose clarity and brightness in the process of restricting how much light gets to your eyes.
To calculate exit pupil size in mm for any bino simply divide the objective diameter by the power, so for 7×42’s it would be 42/7=6 mm, and for 10×25’s it would be 25/10=2.5 mm. So the larger and lower power binos will have much better low light performance because the exit pupil is nearly perfect for dusk & dawn, with the tradeoff being size & weight.
Hopefully this helps a bit.
Man, makes me feel little with these cheapie 40$ pair I use lol.
With your YOUNG eyes, you just won’t understand. Give it a couple more decades and you will.
Not just eyes either."The party in Hades has been canceled due to fire.
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