Another Helim Left Tear…Please Help!

Home Forums Archery Tech Forum Another Helim Left Tear…Please Help!

This topic contains 9 replies, has 8 contributors, and was last updated by  fergeris 8 months ago.

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
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  • October 26, 2013 at 7:22 pm #601479 Back to Top REPORT
    jim-woulfe
    Jim Woulfe

    Joined: 11/23/2008
    Specs:

    30″ ATA
    7″ BH at the center of the berger hole
    Cam running right through the middle of the window
    Idler wheel showing 1/8″ gap at nock point
    *Bow seems to show perfect specs maxed out at 70 lbs

    Arrow:

    28″ CX Maxima Hunter 350 with 125 FP or broadhead

    Bow Set Up: 29″ DL shooting at a measured 63lbs shooting a QAD Ultra rest set at 11/32″

    I have got my arrow running right through the center of the berger hole and the nock point is set at perfectly flush. I am paper tuning from 4-6 as the Easton tuning guide suggests and am getting a perfectly level 1/2′ left tear. I have the latest update for the OT2 software which is suggesting I am just a touch stiff; however, the Easton tuning guide is suggesting the arrow is showing a weak spine…I have tried backing the poundage down and using a 100gn field point whith no results. I tried the lipstick and foot powder tricks to see if I was getting any rest contact and I am not seeing any.

    Your thoughts are appreciated. I have spend all day neglecting much choreplay {#emotions_dlg.mathews_tongue} tinkering with this thing and will no doubt get beat with a stick once the wife gets home for not completeing my honey do list. Please help make it worth it!!!! Thanks guys!

    October 26, 2013 at 9:57 pm #601512 Back to Top REPORT
    vince71969
    vince71969


    Joined: 7/5/2004
    View My Bows
    A left tear like you have is very common and nothing to worry about. walkback and/or group tune and you’ll be all set. Don’t listen to the magazine articles where you have to paper tune to a bullet hole. 99% of those people writing tech articles aren’t practicing what they preach.
    October 26, 2013 at 10:17 pm #601514 Back to Top REPORT
    rsutton
    rsutton

    Joined: 11/27/2008
    Congratulations!
    October 27, 2013 at 12:20 am #601525 Back to Top REPORT
    elc1973
    Elc1973

    Joined: 1/20/2012
    Location: Alaska
    View My Bows
    Check for nock pinch. Mine had the same issue once I corrected the nock pinch it went away.
    October 27, 2013 at 10:49 am #601564 Back to Top REPORT
    ltlostcause
    LtLostCause

    Age: 46
    Joined: 10/11/2013
    Location: NC
    I’m obviously the rookie in all this, but could it be just a hint of torque upon release?  You clearly know more about this than I, so I’m not trying to be critical…just thinking out loud and trying to learn.
    October 27, 2013 at 11:43 am #601574 Back to Top REPORT
    jim-woulfe
    Jim Woulfe

    Joined: 11/23/2008
    Guys,

    thanks for the feedback. I sacrifed a nock and sanded all of the grip out of it to see if it was nock pinch. Does’nt seem to be that either!

    It may very well be hand torque, at this point I am about to forget the paper tuning thing and just go walk back tune it, re-sight it, and forget about it!

    October 27, 2013 at 3:02 pm #601580 Back to Top REPORT

    NDS

    Joined: 1/17/2013
    I have my bow shooting field points with slick trick magnum broadheads to the same point of impact out to 70 yrds.  I shoot at styrofoam cups in a sand pit I built and hit the same cup with both arrows consistently.  However, if I shoot through paper I get a slightly low, left tear.  If I get it to shoot bullet holes in paper my broadheads and field tips no longer shoot to the same point of impact.  This is true with both my MR6 and New Breed Genetix.

    All that to say I pretty much ignore paper tuning now other than to get it close.  I focus on walk back tuning.  If my broadheads and field tips are hitting the same spot that’s all that matters to me.  Maybe I am not doing something right because I know GJArcher has shown his tuning method in detail and has been able to get both right on.  I just can’t seem to.

    My thoughts, walk back tune and see if you can get broad heads and field tips to the same point of impact.  If you can’t then there may be another issue that someone on this forum can help advise you on.

    October 27, 2013 at 8:40 pm #601622 Back to Top REPORT
    gjarcher
    gjarcher

    Age: 71
    Joined: 10/3/2006
    Location: Colorado
    View My Bows
    I’ll admit, I do shoot through paper, but mostly for initial setup or troubleshooting, and don’t spend a lot of time on it. Easton tuning guide advise on spine is for RH finger shooters … weak spine hits right, stiff spine hits left … but for release shooters, weak spine has greater vertical spread than stiff spine, although very stiff spine has a slight nock left and high jump to it, more obvious when shoot-through rests are used. For release shooters, weak spine is unforgiving when the stiff side of the spine isn’t consistently oriented in the vertical plane.

    This is what I’d recommend based on what you’ve said:
    Set the centershot so that the distance from the center of the arrow to the front of the riser is equal to the distance from the center of the arrow to the back of the riser, in other words so that the arrow is parallel to the riser … this should be about 12.5/16″ when measured at the berger hole. Set the nock height 3/16″ above perpendicular as measured with a bow square and the QAD launcher full up. The QAD launcher when full up must be 90º to the shelf.
    QADnockheight

    – Check Ilder lean using Vince’s method in the Tech FAQ forum.
    – walk back tune.
    – group tune at 40 yds using Eastons Arrow Tuning and Maintenance Guide.

    Note: Page 9 of Easton’s guide points out that a perfect bullet hole in paper does not guarantee the best grouping.

    Some observations:
    – Use foot spray powder to eliminate fletch contact issues. Also, check that the QAD is functioning properly … shoot through paper cock vane up then cock vane down, if the timing is correct the tear should be the same.
    – Nock fit is how tight the nock is on the centerserving. Nock Pinch is how much the string squeezes the nock at full draw when the string angle is the sharpest. To eliminate nock pinch, leave at least a 1/16″ gap below the nock and lower D-Loop knot, eliminator button, etc., when fitted to the string.

    Interesting this all started with the Anchorsight. You might try putting a regular peep back in and see if the problem disappears. {#emotions_dlg.mathews_peace}

    October 28, 2013 at 10:10 am #601673 Back to Top REPORT
    gjarcher
    gjarcher

    Age: 71
    Joined: 10/3/2006
    Location: Colorado
    View My Bows
    Strike the last comment about the AnchorSight … I should know better to work on more than one thread at a time. {#emotions_dlg.mathews_brick_wall}
    February 15, 2014 at 9:34 pm #619598 Back to Top REPORT

    fergeris

    Age: 32
    Joined: 6/28/2013
    Location: Texas
    Man this forum helps a lot thanks guys I was having some trouble also fixed it now

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)