Actual draw length

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This topic contains 6 replies, has 5 contributors, and was last updated by ohio-timberghost Ohio Timberghost 1 year, 7 months ago.

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  • February 7, 2013 at 1:02 am #498094 Back to Top REPORT

    boilerfarmer12

    Joined: 12/7/2012
    I have recently switched to a thumb release and am trying to get my bow to fit the change. I feel like my bow is drawing a little long. I had heard there is a way to measure actual draw length by measuring from the valley of the nock to the berger hole and adding a certain amount (1.75″ I believe) to the measurement.

    What I did, took an old arrow and laid it on a yardstick. marked from 24-30″ on it. Drew bow to full draw, and had someone mark where the center of the berger hole was on the arrow. Relaid the arrow on the yardstick and got a measurement of 26.75″. Add the 1.75″ and get 28.5″. The draw length on the cam is supposed to be 28″. So either the cam is a .5″ long or my strings need to be twisted. But the bow is in spec and there is no way the strings are un-twisted to be a 1/2″ long. By the math method I measure 28.5″ DL.

    Mathews’ berger holes are farther back than other bow companies (at least from what I remember about my past bows). Does the 1.75″ still apply to Mathews or should it be less due to the berger being farther back.

    I am heading to the shop tomorrow to get a shorted Dloop put on.

    Here is me shooting tonite:

    February 7, 2013 at 7:55 pm #551705 Back to Top REPORT

    NDS

    Joined: 1/17/2013
    I too have been confused recently by the whole draw length issue. What I have learned is to basically ignore the numbers on the cam and focus on what fits.
    Using the center of the Berger hole + 1.75, my DXT runs 1/2″ longer than what is stated on the cam and my MR6 nearly 3/4″ longer. Both are in spec.

    As I was told, don’t worry about what the cam says make sure the bow fits you not you trying to fit the bow.

    February 7, 2013 at 10:25 pm #551706 Back to Top REPORT
    bow-drawn
    Bow Drawn

    Age: 63
    Joined: 11/14/2007
    Location: Ohio
    View My Bows
    My bows are running around that extra length also by about .50″. I’m a 28″ draw and I cut my arrows at 28.5″ and the inserts end up at the edge of the riser at full draw.
    Making the d-loop shorter does make it feel more comfortable for me.
    February 8, 2013 at 2:13 am #551707 Back to Top REPORT

    boilerfarmer12

    Joined: 12/7/2012
    I want to try a 27.5 cam but since my bow is older its hard to find a used one. i know I can buy new, but thats a lot of coin to drop on something that may not fix my problem.
    February 12, 2013 at 2:05 pm #551708 Back to Top REPORT
    vince71969
    vince71969


    Joined: 7/5/2004
    View My Bows

    I too have been confused recently by the whole draw length issue. What I have learned is to basically ignore the numbers on the cam and focus on what fits.
    Using the center of the Berger hole + 1.75, my DXT runs 1/2″ longer than what is stated on the cam and my MR6 nearly 3/4″ longer. Both are in spec.

    As I was told, don’t worry about what the cam says make sure the bow fits you not you trying to fit the bow.[/quote:3onjqxq6]

    Draw length is measured at the throat of the grip, not the berger button. Also, it’s measured at the bottom on the bow’s valley.

    Drawing a marked arrow is for determining how long of an arrow you need and little else. Holding into the wall will skew the reading. The harder into the wall you pull, the longer the draw will read.

    To check a bows draw length you place it in a draw machine with a gauge between them. When the scale shows the bottom of the valley that’s when you take your reading. You’ll find most bows by any mfg will be approx 1/4″ long.

    February 13, 2013 at 4:17 am #551709 Back to Top REPORT

    NDS

    Joined: 1/17/2013
    Maybe I have been going about this wrong but this is how I have been measuring draw length.

    I put the bow on my drawing device (Bow Time Machine). I then draw the bow back until the scale shows the bow at it’s lowest holding weight (the hold weight goes up as you get closer to the wall.)

    At the bows lowest holding weight I mark the arrow at the center of the berger hole. I also just measured to the throat of the grip and got the same measurement.

    My MR6 28″ mod draws at 28.625″ when maxed out. If I draw hard into the wall, I get an extra .25″. The ATA is measuring right on at 33″ and the brace height at 6″. Bow is peaking at 61.24lbs.

    My MR 28.5″ mod measures at 29.125″ and another .25″ if drawing hard into the wall.

    Bow shoots great so I don’t really care what the draw length mod says verses what I actually seem to get.

    What I would like to know is if I am mistaken in my process? I don’t want to be misinforming anyone. Especially the original poster.

    February 14, 2013 at 1:25 am #551710 Back to Top REPORT
    ohio-timberghost
    Ohio Timberghost

    Age: 41
    Joined: 1/30/2008
    Location: Ohio
    I want to try a 27.5 cam but since my bow is older its hard to find a used one. i know I can buy new, but thats a lot of coin to drop on something that may not fix my problem.

    Just about EVERY Mathews’ bow runs LONG in the draw length. Anywhere from 1/4″ to 1/2″ most of the time. The 2 DXT’s that I owned where actually right on ( the only 2 Mathews’ bows that Ive owned that were). Ive bought every Mathews’ FLAGSHIP bow since the Outback with multiple’s of some and some “non-flagship” models that I bought also to try out. The next bow that was closest to the stamped DL on the cam was my Xtreme’s ( which Im still shooting and in LOVE with). They both ran 1/4″ over which is PERFECT for me….28″ cam and 28 1/4″ draw.
    If your bow is in tune perfect..ATA, BH, cam timing and is still the 1/2″ over…Id just buy the 27.5″ cam and swap them. FWIW, if you have a access to a press you could prob pick up a used/ like new DXT cam over on Archerytalk for less than $40. I also measure the draw length the same way you do ….with the +1.75″….thats the AMO method and your berger hole should be the same distance as the throat of the grip on any mathews…center of the berger hole is easier to be precise IMO like you said.

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