Thanks all in advance for your assistance. I live in Zambia, no pro shops available, and having great difficulty getting a left tear tuned out of my 2009 Mathews Monster. RH, 28.5 DL, 70#, shooting CE Mayhem Hunter 350s @ 27.5″ with 100gr field tips and blazer 2″ vanes, and using a QAD Ultra Rest Hunter. As per the timing holes, bow is timed perfect.
I successfully tuned out a vertical tear by moving the nock point, but there is a 1.5″ left tear that will not budge no matter how far toward the riser I move my rest (in fact I have maxed out my rest adjustment). There is no significant cam lean – balanced an arrow on both cams and point barely intersected string at nock point – and the riser seems straight – here again I balanced arrows at the limb pockets and it seemed to me that they were parallel.
I have noticed a slight ‘click’ when I get toward 50% full draw. Not sure what this is, but I seem to remember reading that this is a benign problem with the Monsters. Also, last thing to note, this is a new bow. It is a 2009 model that I purchased new from a dealer’s old inventory last month. I just brought it to Zambia with me a few weeks back.
Thanks again for reading and assisting. Happy to take anyone on a hunt in Zambia who can help me figure this out!!
I have a 2009 Mathews/McPhersen Monster RH 60#/28″ that I recently restrung and retuned. You might want to review that post for setup and tuning tips:
http://forums.mathewsinc.com/archery-4/ … 0x-214417/
Your arrows are properly spined for field points, but you may find they are on the weak side for broadheads, especially fixed-blade. However, for the purpose of setting up the bow and tuning, the arrows are not the issue.[/u:mt8of4vj] For bowhunting, a .330″ ~ .300″ spine shaft will tune easier, be more forgiving, and penetrate better.
Form issues can cause a persistent left or right tear. Bow Hand torque is the most frequent cause. A recent post concerning a persistent tear with unusually large centershot to correct illustrates this issue:
http://forums.mathewsinc.com/archery-4/ … ne-215236/
Be sure that the index finger is up even with the riser shelf and the grip pressure is on the thumbpad as in this picture:
I have found the Monster can be finicky with the QAD rest. If you have a different fall away, you might want to try that rest, instead.
With respect to the QAD Hunter rest, make sure it ties/clamps to the cable at the bottom of the grip,[/u:mt8of4vj] this will speed up the launcher drop. Also, verify the launcher when full up is vertical[/color:mt8of4vj][/i:mt8of4vj] and not tilted back toward the string. If tilted back toward the string, the launcher must lift the arrow slightly before it drops, making its reaction slow and inconsistent.
The purpose of timing the rest for the last 1/2″ of draw is to allow creep … something that is not an issue with the Monster. The problem with timing the rest in this way is that it throws the AVS synchronization out. I recommend timing the rest so that the launcher comes up in the last 1/8″ of draw or less [/i:mt8of4vj] and have someone tug lightly on the timing cord to verify the launcher does not move and is in the full up position.
Next, set the centershot at 13/16″ and nock height at 1/4″[/b:mt8of4vj], then shoot a paper tear at 5′. Adjust nock height before doing any adjustments to the centershot. Once nock and point are at same elevation (270º, 0º, 90º), then move centershot in very small increments of 1/32″ to improve the tear. Once a bullet hole is achieved at 5′, move back to 10′ and verify bullet hole or make small, refinements in nock height first, then centershot.
If the paper tears are not satisfactory, experiment with bow hand grip position to see how the tear reacts. Also, eliminate string pressure on the face, this too can cause a poor paper tear.
Once you get a satisfactory paper tear, or nearly so, then do a walkback tune to refine the centershot, then group tune.
My Monster after restringing tuned at 53/64″ (21 mm) centershot and 3/16″ (4.8 mm) nock height. When setup for 3D at 55# with a 275-gr arrow, 324 fps, this was the 40 yd 6 arrow group tuning results — a few clicks and the sight will be on:
I just found the problem. That clicking sound was apparently attributable to a much more serious problem. I drew back to check the QAD rest engagement point, and right as I hit full draw I heard a ‘pop’ and clatter…out sprung a very small ball bearing from the top cam, and the red pulley crunched into the top right limb. See pics.
This is so depressing. And there are no Mathews dealers/pro shops anywhere in range of me…
Thanks for your assistance though. I have been following your posts on tuning and they have been very helpful. Not sure how I’m going to resolve this one…Ouch
Contact Mathews and see what you can work out.
http://mathewsinc.com/customer-support/ … l-support/
Location: AlbertaYikes yes feel for ya…gonna need a new limb, axle and cam..is that a mark on the string serving also
NeilJust sent a message to Mathews customer service. Hopefully they can work with me outside the normal dealer channels, given the nature of my situation. Fortunately the hunting here is year round, so will be able to make up for lost time once the problem is sorted out!
…I have noticed a slight ‘click’ when I get toward 50% full draw. Not sure what this is, but I seem to remember reading that this is a benign problem with the Monsters. Also, last thing to note, this is a new bow. It is a 2009 model that I purchased new from a dealer’s old inventory last month. …
I have not heard or read anything about the Monsters making a ‘click’ sound on draw. In fact, my 2009 Monster has been exceptionally noise-free.
Unfortunately, I dismissed the comment about the ‘click’ sound as possible bearing failure since the bow is new. The QAD Hunter arrow rest is not as smooth or as durable as the Ultrarest and making a click sound as it sets in the Ready position is not unusual.
Keep in touch and let us know how things work out … and Good Hunting.
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